Roca River Camp: home from home in the wild Maasai Mara

Endless stretches of golden savannah, lush tree groves and some of the most spectacular wildlife the planet has to offer: welcome to Maasai Mara.

There's no better way to arrive at this spectacular location than by small plane, just a short 45-minute hop from Nairobi, which sees you soar above the elephant-dotted landscape before touching down in the heart of this iconic wilderness.

From here, the adventure begins with a thrilling drive by jeep to Roca River Camp, where the wonders of safari unfold long before we reach base.

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The accommodation

Nestled on the banks of the Mara River, on the edge of Paradise Plains in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, this boutique tented camp offers classic safari charm combined with the laid-back appeal of a chic, bohemian hotel. Ten spacious ensuite tents afford views of the sweeping plains or Mara River with its gentle chorus of wallowing hippos. Complete with large, comfortable beds, solar power, hot showers (provided you give a little forewarning) and thoughtful touches such as a hot water bottle tucked into your feather-soft bed at night, the camp is a comfortable and peaceful haven in the wild heart of the reserve.

You are truly amongst nature at this luxurious camp, with animals – including elephants, giraffe, and warthogs – often wandering through the camp, or grazing nearby. Those lucky enough might find Eminem, the 'camp hippo' coming over to introduce himself as you enjoy an evening tipple by the campfire. As a young male, he has been temporarily exiled from his pod in the nearby river and enjoys spending his time at a watering hole close to Roca River. Camp owners and hosts, Ross and Caro Withey, suspect he enjoys the human company, too

Eating and drinking

Breakfasts here take place under the cool shade of the balanites trees, with a substantial spread put on by Chef Joel, including eggs to order, pancakes, bacon, sausages, omelettes, fruit, granola, coffee and a selection of fresh juices.

Lunch can be eaten at camp or as a picnic out on game drives. The latter is by far the more romantic option – tables and chairs are set out on the savannah at a picturesque spot, where you can spend the time watching giraffes loping by in the distance or grazing herds of wildebeest. Sundowners, an evening drink at sunset to the uninitiated, can also be taken out on the savannah or next to the Mara River, providing the most unique location you're ever likely to sip a gin and tonic.

Things to do

There is, of course, only one show in town when visiting Masaai Mara: safari. Each guest group staying at the camp is given their own vehicle with a spotter and guide (almost all from the local area). They are without doubt some of the best in the business, seeming to possess an uncanny ability to spot lions from impossible distances.

Days here are spent on the savannah and start as early as dawn – indeed, this is often the best time for sightings, especially for the big cats such as lions and leopards, who are most active at this time of day.

True to the ethos of the Explorations Company, Roca River Camp is involved in conservation, and guests can meet with experts and visit projects like the Mara Predator Conservation Programme and the Mara Elephant Project. Community programmes include the Anne K. Taylor Fund – an impressive initiative supporting local women to make washable sanitary pads, empowering them economically, and ensuring girls can stay in school, as well serving as an entry point to addressing issues like FGM and early pregnancy.

The verdict

Veteran safari-goers will well know the frustration of jostling for a glimpse of a leopard or other beast amid a swarm of vehicles, each battling for the best viewing spot. But thanks to the efforts of Ross and his team of expert guides, here you often find yourself alone with Mara's breath-taking wildlife, whether it's a pride of lions guarding its kill or a herd of elephants grazing under the shade of the elephant pepper tree. It's certainly a better experience for those peering out from the jeep, and, one hopes, a less disconcerting experience for the wonderful creatures peering back. And for that alone, a stay at Roca River is a must.

Being human (and not a wildebeest or lion), I expected to find it difficult to feel at home in the expansive wilds of Mara. But at Roca River, Ross and Caro welcome guests like old friends, creating a wonderful home away from home stay in this pristine landscape. I left already planning my next visit and promised to come back very, very soon.

Sorcha Bradley stayed at Roca River Camp as a guest of Explorations Company. A nine-night itinerary starts from £10,494 per person, including domestic flights, airport transfers, full-board accommodation and activities at all safari lodges.