Tried and tasted: best gins for the perfect G&T
The proliferation of gins – and tonics – has created a delightfully daunting choice
- Silent Pool Black Juniper Gin
- Dyfi Original
- No. 3 Gin
- Artingstall's Brilliant London Dry Gin
- Height of Arrows
- Cooper King Dry Gin
- 44°N Gin
- QVT Dry Gin
- Monkey 47
- Cotswolds Dry Gin
- Kyrö Gin
- 6 O’Clock Gin Brunel Edition
- Eight Lands Organic Speyside Gin
- The Botanist Islay Dry Gin
- Tanqueray No. Ten
- Porter's Modern Classic
- Procera
- Piston Dry Gin
- Hernö
- Bullards Coastal Gin
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Silent Pool Black Juniper Gin
A gin for people with deep pockets and rarefied tastes, Silent Pool Black Juniper taps into the cultural and botanical history of the mountain kingdom of Bhutan. The berry after which it is named, black juniper, is found high in the Himalayas, where it is used in a religious ceremony performed by sherpas before they set out on a challenging climb. It is a rare species which must be harvested with care: the makers have enlisted the help of local foragers, who selectively harvest ripe berries while leaving enough to replenish the supply for the following year. At £295 a bottle, this is not a gin to sling down with the half-flat tonic water in the fridge door. Silent Pool, the Surrey-based distiller responsible for creating it, recommends sipping it neat over ice – in which form it has a complex, smokey flavour that's as much like a whisky as a conventional gin. As the ice gradually melts, diluting the spirit, the flavour unfurls and floral notes from Nepalese cherry blossom and Himalayan black tea round out the pinewood punch of the juniper. If neat gin, even of this quality, is a challenge too far, the makers give their blessing to a mix of one part yellow chartreuse to four of the gin and two dashes of orange bitters. The liqueur adds sweetness and freshness without detracting from the smokey depth of the black juniper. £295 (1 litre); silentpooldistillers.com
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Dyfi Original
A gold medal-winner at the World Gin Awards, this clean, potent gin pairs well with a range of tonics and garnishes. The Welsh distiller recommends bruised juniper, twisted lime peel and a sprig of dill or fennel but a slice of lemon works equally well. Its affinity for citrus makes this the ideal gin for a gimlet. In fact its bold, smooth character works well in most cocktails: purists will be delighted by a Dyfi Original martini, served dry with either an olive or a twist, but the more adventurous martini-phile might like to try swapping in Dyfi's Pollination Gin, a more floral-forward blend incorporating 29 botanicals. £34.95 (500ml); dyfidistillery.com
No. 3 Gin
The explosion of the craft gin market has produced a huge variety of novelty, flavoured or celebrity-endorsed spirits. Some of them are excellent, but many more stretch the definition of gin beyond recognition. It's therefore refreshing in more ways than one to open a reassuringly solid bottle of No. 3 Gin and inhale the classic aroma of juniper and citrus. Created by Berry Bros & Rudd, the historical wine merchants, this award-winning London dry gin is crisp and uncomplicated. The makers recommend a garnish of grapefruit and rosemary, which serves very well to balance the bright fruity notes with the earthier aromatics. A series of experiments revealed that lemon and thyme also work well together, imparting a more floral finish. £39 (700ml); bbr.com
Artingstall's Brilliant London Dry Gin
Paul Feig is perhaps best known as the director of "Bridesmaids", the award-winning comedy with a classy ensemble cast. His recent release is dependent on chemistry of a different sort: the harmonious blend of 11 botanicals in Artingstall's Brilliant London Dry Gin. Feig not only worked with the distiller Ravinder Minhas to create the flavour profile, but also gave it his mother's maiden name. He has resisted the recent trend towards highly fragrant designer gins, producing instead a subtle, versatile spirit which works well in martinis, negronis and G&Ts. It comes in a handsome bottle, too – a classic-looking block of glass which looks very much like a diamond-cut crystal decanter. £38.75 (700ml); artingstallsgin.com
Height of Arrows
"Made by Edinburgh" is the tagline of the Holyrood Distillery, which produces both whisky and gin beneath the crags of Arthur's Seat. That explains the slightly cryptic name of the gin: in Gaelic, the mountain is known as Ard-Na-Said or "Height of Arrows" – reflecting the belief that its summit marked the limit of any archer's reach. The gin is refreshingly simple in approach, bucking the trend towards a laundry list of botanicals and building its flavour around juniper alone. Sea salt and beeswax provide structural support. The clarity of the resulting spirit lends itself to the martini as well as the G&T, in which it pairs nicely with a garnish of rosemary. £34.95 (700ml); royalmilewhiskies.com
Cooper King Dry Gin
Three centuries ago, London's gin palaces were held responsible for all the city's social ills. Now, though, gin might just save the world – or at least make a small contribution to the battle against climate change. That's the hope of Abbie Neilson and Chris Jaume, the founders of Cooper King Distillery, who claim to produce the "greenest gin in England". The Yorkshire-based operation runs entirely on renewable energy, and since a square metre of forest is planted for each bottle sold, the spirit is certified carbon-negative. All that would be academic if it didn't also taste good – but it does. The flagship product, Cooper King Dry Gin, is warm and slightly spiced, with notes of cumin and cardamom which can be drawn out with a savoury garnish such as rosemary or cucumber. The distillery's Herb Gin is green in flavour as well as environmental credentials – and makes for an enjoyably spring-like martini. £39 (700ml); cooperkingdistillery.co.uk
44°N Gin
The first striking quality of 44°N Gin is the luminous blue of its bottle, a tribute to its home on the Cote d'Azur (as is the latitude-inspired name). The second is the vibrant aroma unleashed by the removal of its stainless steel stopper – and it too can be explained geographically. The 44°N distillery is in Grasse, the centre of the international perfume industry and home to the world's most sensitive and sophisticated noses. Their experience has contributed to a spirit which is floral and summery, evoking an evening by the Med even in the depths of the British winter. It works well without a garnish, but rosemary brings out a pepperiness that complements the highly perfumed top notes. €75/£65 (500ml); 44gin.com
QVT Dry Gin
Another French entry on the list also hails from the southeastern corner of the country – and is also named after its home turf. This one, however, is a little more cryptic: QVT stands for quatre-vingt trois, or 83 – the number of the Provencal department of Var in which the distillery stands. Founded by a British couple, the flavour profile reflects a dual heritage: classically Juniper-driven, with hints of lavender and thyme. A slice of lemon brings out the crispness of the former, while orange draws out the sweetness of the Mediterranean influences. £43.90 (700ml); urban-drinks.co.uk
Monkey 47
The numerical part of Monkey 47's name refers to the gin's 47% proof strength. The primate takes a little more explaining. It all dates back to 1945, when RAF wing commander Montgomery "Monty" Collins was dispatched to post-war Berlin. "Profoundly affected by the extent of the destruction," said the Gin Foundry, "he became devoted to the rebuilding of the Berlin Zoo, through which he came to sponsor an egret monkey by the name of Max." When Collins retired, he moved to the Black Forest, took up gin-making and named the fruit of his labour in Max's honour. The result is a suitably eccentric gin, with a woody, almost musky aroma. It makes a satisfying martini and a sophisticated G&T, especially garnished with a slice of orange to bring out its sweeter side. £36.99 (500ml); masterofmalt.com
Cotswolds Dry Gin
The first gin produced by the Cotswolds Distillery in Warwickshire is "non-chill filtered, a method which retains the oils", Good Housekeeping explained. This means when mixed with ice or tonic a "beautiful pearlescent cloud" develops in the glass, as when water is added to ouzo or sambuca. It may sound like a gimmick, but it's in the service of a fine gin. Crisp, dry and packed with botanicals including fresh grapefruit and local lavender, it makes a bold martini and a sophisticated G&T. Cotswolds Dry has a "very complex, intricate melding of powerful flavours", said The Gin Lounge, "with deep citrus and floral notes dominating". Bring out the herbal character with a garnish of bay leaf, rosemary or cucumber. £37 (700ml); cotswoldsdistillery.com
Kyrö Gin
According to the bottle it comes in, the Finnish gin Kyrö has a "heart of wild nature and naked ambition" – a slogan vividly illustrated on its website by a photo of the bare-buttocked company founders leaping through a field of rye. They are, it seems, very fond of the grain, having decided to make both whisky and gin from it. The gin, perfumed with parma violets, vanilla and orange blossom, is heady and floral, and best served with a more savoury garnish. Rosemary or cucumber both bring out the deeper, herbier flavours. £29.95 (500ml); kyrodistillery.co.uk
6 O’Clock Gin Brunel Edition
Bristol-based Bramley & Gage, the company behind 6 O'Clock Gin, is celebrating one of the city's most famous sons with a "Brunel Edition". Using the excellent original as its starting point, the latest expression includes "six new botanicals – green cardamom, nutmeg, cumin, cassia bark, cubeb and lemon", said Beverage Daily. The spice shines through, making for a muscular G&T – as does the 50% alcohol content. Like the regular Six O'Clock gin, the Brunel Edition comes in a beautiful bottle – dark midnight blue rather than the medicinal shade of the original, but retaining the weighty glass-and-steel stopper. It's a heavy-duty tribute to one of the world's great engineers. £37.58 (700ml); masterofmalt.com
Eight Lands Organic Speyside Gin
The Eight Lands distillery is named after the number of counties that can be seen from the top of the nearby Ben Rinnes mountain, at least when the Scottish weather cooperates. These dramatic surroundings are put to good use by the father and step-son team behind the gin, which they create from local organic grain, botanicals and spring water. It must be good gin-making terroir – Speyside is a delightfully clean gin, in which sweet, floral notes predominate. You can either accentuate them with a garnish of citrus or even strawberry, or add depth with a slice of cucumber. The gin also makes an excellent (and dangerously drinkable) martini. £39 (700ml); eight-lands.com
The Botanist Islay Dry Gin
Labelled as an Islay dry gin, The Botanist is a subtly flavoured spirit made with 22 botanicals sustainably harvested from its island home. Along with nine more barks, peels and seeds less at home in the Scottish climate – orange, cinnamon and corianders, for example – they contribute to a gin of unusual purity and smoothness, which deserves to be tried in a martini before it gets the G&T treatment. A simple garnish works best with The Botanist – a sliver of lemon peel, bruised to release its oils. £37.95 (700ml); thewhiskyexchange.com
Tanqueray No. Ten
One of the "most respected gins available on the market", said the Gin Foundry, Tanqueray No. Ten is flavoured with "whole fruit botanicals such as fresh white grapefruits from Florida, whole limes from Mexico along with juniper, coriander and chamomile". Fever-Tree's Indian tonic water is an ideal match for a G&T, and with citrus to the fore, No. Ten responds well to a simple garnish of lemon or lime (or both), but it takes on an enjoyably herbal complexity with a slice of cucumber. Its distinctive clarity makes it the "go-to choice" for a classic martini, said The Daily Telegraph. £25 (700ml); amazon.co.uk
Porter's Modern Classic
Produced in a micro-distillery under a bar in Aberdeen, Porter's Modern Classic is a crisp, fresh and distinctively floral gin. It is also an attractive shade of pale green. The flavour profile is in part down to an unusual botanical – the buddha's hand fruit (pictured on the label), which looks like a fistful of yellow chillis and has a strong citrus aroma – and partly down to the way the gin is made. While most distilleries boil up their botanicals with the raw spirit, Porter's uses pumps to create a vacuum in the still, which means the gin will boil at a lower temperature, preserving the flavour of the fruits, herbs and spices. It might sound like a gimmick, but "a quick side-by side comparison of conventionally-distilled versus [vacuum] rotavap-distilled buddha's hand reveals just how much of a difference this low-temperature process can make", said The Scotsman. "The former is insipid and flat with a vague aroma of overcooked popcorn, whereas the rotavap distillate practically fizzes in the nostrils like freshly-poured old-fashioned lemonade." £33.61 (700ml); masterofmalt.com
Procera
This unusual gin is distilled in Nairobi using a species of juniper that grows in the highlands of Kenya and Ethiopia – Juniperus procera, after which it is named. Nine other botanicals, all African in origin, include Madagascan pink peppercorns and orris root from Morocco. The result is a deeply savoury gin, quite different from the others on this list. Less fresh and citrussy than its rivals, it sits at the cedar-and-old-leather end of the flavour spectrum, more like a vintage claret. It works well with similarly earthy garnishes – try rosemary or cucumber. Or else just admire the beautiful hand-blown bottle in which it arrives. From £76.85 (700ml); masterofmalt.com
Piston Dry Gin
The Piston distillery in Worcestershire produces a range of flavoured gins, infused with everything from strawberries to coffee, as well as an excellent London dry gin with a clean, sophisticated flavour. The name – not a pun on the slang term for the inebriated – is a tribute to the engineering heritage of the Midlands, and the canal boats that brought in botanicals from the ends of the earth. The dry gin is well balanced, with hibiscus flower and lemongrass offset by rhubarb root and ancho chilli. It's a combination that pairs well with floral Mediterranean tonic waters – or, for a more classic G&T, mix it with Indian tonic and garnish with lemon. £40 (700ml); pistondistillery.com
Hernö
A subtle, ultra-smooth spirit, Hernö would make a good gateway gin for the sceptical drinker. Produced in Sweden using organic botanicals, it adds vanilla and cassia bark to the typical London dry botanicals. A good squeeze of lemon brings it to life in a G&T, but Hernö also makes a mean martini. The Cocktail Geek recommends "the substitution of vermouth with a dry sherry". £30.50 (500ml); masterofmalt.com
Bullards Coastal Gin
Hailing from Norkfolk, Bullards Coastal Gin is flavoured with a selection of botanicals foraged from the county's picturesque coastline. Sea purslane and marsh samphire give the gin a savoury, salty topnote, which is underpinned by the sweetness of douglas fir. Your choice of garnish will determine which flavour comes to the fore: the maker's recommendation of blackberries emphasises the sweetness, while rosemary or cucumber brings out the salinity. It comes, like many craft gins, in a beautiful – and hefty – glass bottle, which can be guilt-inducing to dispose of. Unusually, however, the Bullards beauties can be reused: simply order a recyclable refill pouch and decant its contents into the original bottle through the easy-pour spout. £43 (700ml); bullardsspirits.co.uk
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Holden Frith is The Week’s digital director. He also makes regular appearances on “The Week Unwrapped”, speaking about subjects as diverse as vaccine development and bionic bomb-sniffing locusts. He joined The Week in 2013, spending five years editing the magazine’s website. Before that, he was deputy digital editor at The Sunday Times. He has also been TheTimes.co.uk’s technology editor and the launch editor of Wired magazine’s UK website. Holden has worked in journalism for nearly two decades, having started his professional career while completing an English literature degree at Cambridge University. He followed that with a master’s degree in journalism from Northwestern University in Chicago. A keen photographer, he also writes travel features whenever he gets the chance.
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