Recipe of the week: Homemade processed cheese

“Processed cheese often gets a bad rap,” but it does at least one job well, said Noelle Carter in the Los Angeles Times. “Just try getting that perfect ooze and silky texture from any other cheese when you melt it.” This recipe, inspired by the tinkerings of some serious molecular gastronomists, might prove useful the next time you want a great cheeseburger or queso dip. Best of all, you’ll know exactly what went into it.

Homemade processed cheese

• 8 oz mild cheddar, or a similar semifirm cheese
• ¼ cup nonfat milk powder
• 2 tbsp tapioca flour or starch
• 3/8 tsp salt
• 2 tbsp butter
• ¼ cup dry white wine
• ¼ cup water

Line a 12-oz ramekin or similar-size loaf pan with plastic wrap. Grate the cheese very finely and place it in a food processor. Add milk powder, tapioca flour, and salt, and pulse to combine.

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In a small saucepan, combine the butter, wine, and water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat immediately and, with the processor running, slowly pour the hot liquid in with the cheese. Continue processing until the cheese is fully melted and all ingredients are incorporated, scraping the bowl once or twice as processing continues.

Spoon the cheese into the prepared loaf pan. Smooth the top and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the cheese until it’s fully set and firm enough to slice (preferably several hours). The cheese, when covered and refrigerated, will keep for up to a month. Makes 13 oz.