Beer: The new milk stouts

Milk stouts are “having a moment,” said Joshua M. Bernstein in BonAppetit.com. Popular in Britain a century ago, these “smooth, lightly sweet” dark beers are brewed with milk sugar and were once touted as particularly beneficial to breast-feeding mothers. We make no such claims, but we do like the way the lactose rounds out the flavors of the three American standouts below.

Tallgrass Buffalo Sweat Manhattan, Kan. “Take chocolate cake and run it through a blender with a fistful of espresso beans”—this rich stout

approximates the same flavor.

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Left Hand Milk Stout Longmont, Colo. A “full-bodied, chocolaty indulgence,” this stout gets its “lingerie-style silkiness” from oats.

Lancaster Brewing Co. Milk Stout Lancaster, Pa. Drier than the others, this one “ricochets between flavors of semisweet chocolate and roasted barley.”