San Francisco: An embarrassment of sweets shops

The Bay Area’s best pastry chefs have “gone rogue,” said TastingTable.com. Leaving behind the world-class restaurants where they established their reputations, several have opened patisseries or cafés of their own. Maybe some could see that top kitchens have less need for their skills than before, but the trend has at least one major upside: “You’re no longer limited to eating their sweets after a big dinner.”

Craftsman & Wolves William Werner made his name at the Ritz-Carlton and Quince before opening this bakery in the Mission last year. He brought along his most famous pastry, a cheese muffin with a soft-cooked egg in the middle, and has won new fans with his savory mango scones and cherry-buttermilk verrines. At lunchtime, join the crowd heading to nearby Dolores Park with picnic boxes to go. 746 Valencia St., (415) 913-7713

B. Patisserie Belinda Leong is “a master of air.” The former Manresa pastry chef makes “pastries so light, you wonder whether you should even pick them up.” At her 6-month-old shop in Pacific Heights, even the chocolate-caramel-toffee mousse, topped with a glossy glaçage, seems to evaporate on contact. 2821 California St., (415) 440-1700

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20th Century Café Michelle Polzine’s newly opened café expands on a theme that helped earn her a James Beard Award nomination at Range: She seeks the best savory and sweet pastries of Vienna, Prague, and Budapest, then improves them. Don’t miss her potato knish or spiced honey cake. 198 Gough St., (415) 621-2380