Wine: The best in Beaujolais

Beaujolais nouveau has been promoted so successfully that it’s marred the region’s reputation.

“Beaujolais has rarely been included in anybody’s pantheon of great wines,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. That’s partly because of Beaujolais nouveau, the simple, fruity wine that’s sold just after harvest and promoted so successfully that it’s marred the region’s reputation. But the 10 Beaujolais crus, or village appellations, “are capable of greatness,” as the 2011 vintage proves.

2011 Marcel Lapierre Morgon ($26). This “lovely, complex” wine from one of the region’s pioneers in organic cultivation offers “spicy floral and mineral flavors.”

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