Gin: Best of the new breed

Gin is back—sort of, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. With craft distilleries sprouting up across the U.S., “no spirit seems to have captured the imagination of these small distillers more than gin has.” Sadly, their creations aren’t all praiseworthy; “making gin is not for amateurs.” But the best are reminding drinkers that “brisk, peppery” gin has always been more interesting and elegant than vodka.

Greylock Gin Berkshire Mountain Distillers ($28). This “light, complex” gin from Massachusetts is “dominated by classic flavors of juniper, citrus, and coriander.”

Junipero Gin Anchor Distilling Co. ($32). Made in San Francisco, this “clean, dry, and classic” gin throws off “a slight alcohol burn.”

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Dorothy Parker American Gin New York Distilling Co. ($33). This “bright and pungent” Brooklyn product isn’t classic, but it is intriguing.