St.-Joseph: Fall’s essence

I’m not one to restrict wines to certain seasons, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. But something about fall causes a “vulnerable portion of my brain” to “pant for St.-Joseph.” Made exclusively with syrah grapes grown in the northern Rhône Valley, St.-Joseph reds are “mouthwatering” wines that “go beautifully” with grilled meats like lamb or venison.

2007 Domaine du Tunnel ($32). This savory wine captures the essence of St.-Joseph, and its “fine structure” means it will taste great now and 10 years from now.

2009 Domaine Vincent Paris ($32). A wine with “a great sense of place.” It’s rich in the flavors of “violets, olives, spices, and oak.”

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2008 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave ($70). My “ideal St.-Joseph,” a rich blend of “mineral, olive, and smoky, meaty flavors.”