Napa: The valley’s classic wines

Napa Valley buzz too often is about the big estates that win medals for their “high-alcohol fruit bombs,” said John Mariani in Bloomberg.com. But there are still Napa wineries making “austere, traditional wines that deserve wider recognition.” One of them is Concannon, a fourth-generation family vineyard where terroir is the focus.

2007 Concannon Cabernet Sauvignon ($15)

A “brawny but balanced” red, this steal of a wine has “plenty of dark fruit without the cloying sweetness and blast of more potent” cabs.

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2007 Concannon Petite Sirah ($15)

This light-bodied wine is “silky, with a good range of plum and cherry.”

2007 Captain Joe’s Petite Sirah ($30)

This “muscular” wine is culled from Concannon’s best lots. It’s finished with a touch of Syrah and “would be ideal for Thanksgiving.”