Why Wolfgang Puck would want to open another restaurant in Los Angeles “is beyond me,” said S. Irene Virbila in the Los Angeles Times. “I guess he just can’t resist.” Back in 1982, he made a big splash with Spago on the Sunset Strip. That was followed by another Spago in Beverly Hills. Now the Austrian-born celebrity chef has opened Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill on L.A. Live square. This latest venture may not break any culinary ground, but it does serve up plenty of familiar food with dependable “Puck pizazz.” The service is superb, the wine list “thrilling,” and there are several can’t-miss dishes.
Tuna tartare may now be obligatory on many California menus, but Puck’s version is simply outstanding. Also notable are a red endive and Fuji apple salad; pizza covered with molten Taleggio, wild mushrooms, and thin asparagus; and mussels that “release all their perfume the minute the lid is removed.” Among the lovely desserts are the 50/50 sundae—orange granita layered with creamy mascarpone ice cream. “Cool, very cool.”
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