Root beer: A uniquely American brew

Few sodas can have the same mystique as “a frosty mug of root beer,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. What other kind of soda lends its name to an ice cream drink—the root beer float—or evokes memories of “road-trip pit stops at A&W root beer stands”? Hundreds of root beer makers across the country contribute to a diversity of flavors that cola can’t match.

In a recent tasting, my colleagues and I sampled 25 root beers—“not from frosty mugs but in our usual wine glasses.” These stood out:

Sprecher ($1.20, 16 oz) Glendale, Wis.

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One of our favorites. “A wonderfully balanced and complex brew,” sweetened with corn syrup and honey.

IBC ($1.20, 12 oz) Plano, Texas

Another great mug. Restrained “yet complex.” Made with corn syrup.

Abita ($1.50, 12 oz) Abita Springs, La.

“Flavors of cinnamon and cloves.” Sweetened with cane sugar.

Sea Dog Old Style ($1.20, 12 oz) Portland, Maine

”Spicy” and extremely sweet. Made with cane sugar.

Fitz’s ($1, 12 oz) St. Louis

“Balanced and spicy,” but quite sweet. Made with cane sugar.

Stewart’s ($1.20, 12 oz) Rye Brook, N.Y.

“Vanilla and cinnamon.” Made with high-fructose corn syrup.

Dr. Brown’s Draft Style (45 cents, 12 oz) New York

“Flavors of mint, cloves, and ginger.” Made with corn syrup.

Gale’s ($1, 12 oz) Riverwoods, Ill.

“Pungent flavors of cinnamon and ginger.” Sweetened with corn syrup.

Thomas Kemper ($1, 12 oz) Seattle

“Spicy vanilla and wintergreen flavors.” Sweetened with cane sugar and honey.

Whole Foods 365 All Natural (40 cents, 12 oz) Austin

Flavors of “wintergreen, licorice, and caramel.” Sweetened with cane sugar.