Tracking tigers in central India
Though tiger populations are on the rise this decade, the global count has fallen by fully half since 1993

Each week, we spotlight a dream vacation recommended by some of the industry's top travel writers. This week's pick is Madhya Pradesh, India.
If seeing a wild tiger is on your bucket list, "put it near the top," said Lisa Grainger at Travel + Leisure. Though tiger populations are on the rise this decade, the global count has fallen by fully half since 1993, and in India, home to two-thirds of the world's tigers, rapid deforestation has penned the 2,200 remaining cats into an area equivalent to just 7 percent of their original habitat. But India is also a place where conservation efforts have produced a leap in the tiger population since 2010, so I was eager to join a six-day safari in Madhya Pradesh. "Five years ago, I went on a tiger safari and came away totally disheartened, having seen not a single big cat." This time, I was hopeful that I'd be luckier.
My first stop was Bandhavgarh National Park, where I stayed at the Samode Safari Lodge, a polished camp with knowledgeable guides and "supremely comfortable" rooms. Seeing tigers is a matter of being in the right place at the right time, though, so we didn't loiter. Instead, we were out in our jeeps for seven hours on our first day and scheduled for an even longer second day, when we had our first tiger sighting: a male cub lounging on a slab of sandstone. Banbayi, I learned, was a regular in the area. As I studied his long whiskers through binoculars and watched the flick of his tail, he occasionally glanced our way. "I was so thrilled my eyes welled up." Only when he padded off into the tall grass, while langurs hooted overhead, did we push on.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
I later saw a tigress and her cub in Kanha, Madhya Pradesh's largest reserve, while staying at Kipling Camp, a rustic operation run by tiger conservationist Belinda Wright. Wright "knows every turn of the road, every tree," and she pointed out many rare species, including the copper-winged Indian paradise flycatcher and the barasingha deer. Best of all, I got to know Tara, a rescue elephant, and I spent an hour with her at a river scrubbing her bristly hide as she contentedly wallowed and spurted water. Seeing such a menagerie of creatures, I decided, is "the real point of coming on a tiger safari."
Read more at Travel + Leisure, or book a room at the Kipling Camp. Doubles start at $328.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
5 immersive books to read this April for a brief escape
The Week Recommends A dystopian tale takes us to the library, a journalist's ode to her refugee parents and more
By Theara Coleman, The Week US Published
-
'The winners and losers of AI may not be where we expect'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Shingles vaccine cuts dementia risk, study finds
Speed Read Getting vaccinated appears to significantly reduce the chances of developing Alzheimer's and other forms of dementia
By Peter Weber, The Week US Published
-
'Like a sound from hell': Serbia and sonic weapons
The Explainer Half a million people sign petition alleging Serbian police used an illegal 'sound cannon' to disrupt anti-government protests
By Abby Wilson Published
-
The arrest of the Philippines' former president leaves the country's drug war in disarray
In the Spotlight Rodrigo Duterte was arrested by the ICC earlier this month
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Ukrainian election: who could replace Zelenskyy?
The Explainer Donald Trump's 'dictator' jibe raises pressure on Ukraine to the polls while the country is under martial law
By Sorcha Bradley, The Week UK Published
-
Why Serbian protesters set off smoke bombs in parliament
THE EXPLAINER Ongoing anti-corruption protests erupted into full view this week as Serbian protesters threw the country's legislature into chaos
By Rafi Schwartz, The Week US Published
-
Who is the Hat Man? 'Shadow people' and sleep paralysis
In Depth 'Sleep demons' have plagued our dreams throughout the centuries, but the explanation could be medical
By The Week Staff Published
-
Why Assad fell so fast
The Explainer The newly liberated Syria is in an incredibly precarious position, but it's too soon to succumb to defeatist gloom
By The Week UK Published
-
Romania's election rerun
The Explainer Shock result of presidential election has been annulled following allegations of Russian interference
By Sorcha Bradley, The Week UK Published
-
Russia's shadow war in Europe
Talking Point Steering clear of open conflict, Moscow is slowly ratcheting up the pressure on Nato rivals to see what it can get away with.
By The Week UK Published