Edge of Ember: affordable fine jewellery for classicists 

When shopping online, you may sometimes scroll through customer reviews to gauge how well an item has fared. Amazon pioneered the review program, but lots of fashion retailers have adopted this system, including H&M and Asos. However, when it comes to five-star customer feedback, you’d be hard pressed to find a small business with as many public posts as Edge of Ember, a sustainable fine jewellery brand that uses recycled silver and gold, as well as lab-grown diamonds. To date, you can read an impressive 3,761 positive reviews on the label’s website, a testament to the popularity of this young business launched by London-based, Singapore-born founder Lynette Ong, who previously worked in finance.

Ong’s former life in the City is important, because it gave her a natural affinity for risk taking and planning strategic opportunities. In 2014, she got itchy feet on the trading floor and turned her attention to jewellery design, inspired by the artisanal crafts of Singapore and its neighbouring countries. “I wanted to celebrate Asian craftsmanship, to bring this knowledge to the world stage,” she said. “In the West, there still exists the preconception that ‘made in Asia’ means cheaply and poorly produced, but the ateliers we use are masters of this art form. I saw an opportunity to elevate this area of metalwork.”

Her first designs made use of brass derived from abandoned land mines in Cambodia. “We now use more refined metals,” she added, “but we have maintained our commitment to a sustainable ethos, this means fair pay, good working conditions, social responsibility and environmental care.”

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Edge of Ember’s designs are youthful and elegant. There are no big and mighty statement pieces, no trend-led collections and no fussy geometries or overcomplicated silhouettes. Its style pushes towards a dainty, feminine and timeless aesthetic that’s playful, though sophisticatedly so, rather than quirky or whimsical.

There are pretty birthstone and pearl drop necklaces, gold plated zodiac pendants, sterling silver hoop earrings, delicate gold plated anklets and a large number of affordable 14ct solid gold pieces. It is precisely this melange of silver, plated gold and solid gold, across similar designs that has been the secret to Ong’s success.

To illustrate, a plated twist chain necklace is £85 in plated gold. In silver it is £78, which allows customers to choose their metal according to what suits their style and skin, as opposed to what they can afford. The most expensive 14ct solid gold necklace is her triple initial diamond necklace at £745, but this pure metal category starts at £125 for a fine chain. “When I started Edge of Ember, I designed for myself,” Ong explained. “Modern but unfussy, designed to be worn everyday. I also love semi-precious gems because stone-setting is a speciality in our workshops in Thailand.”

One of these workshops, situated just outside Bangkok and helmed by a Belgian jeweller, is almost entirely powered by solar energy. “It’s so important for us to know that our suppliers are as green as can be with good waste management systems to minimise the use of harmful chemicals,” she said. “Also, a lot of suppliers did not want to work with lab-grown diamonds because they thought it might affect the mined diamond side of their business. We spent a lot of time looking for the right fit.”

The lockdown period was a prosperous time for Edge of Ember, fuelled by some lucky breaks. “You could say we had a few tailwinds,” Ong said. “Meghan Markle wore three of our pieces [including the brand’s best-selling Visionary charm pendant with its ‘evil eye’ detail, pictured above], and we partnered with influencer Victoria Magrath which boosted our visibility online.”

This latter tie-in was particularly smart from a marketing perspective given Magrath’s past partnerships with popular labels including L’Oréal Paris, Clarins, Valentino and Bulgari, creating an instant association with desirable luxury. “Social media is great but to me, customer service and customer experience are our key pillars,” said Ong. “It’s one thing looking good, but word of mouth from happy customers is what pushes a business forward.” This explains Edge of Ember’s effusive reviews page.

Ong works with a product developer on design, but she has her eye on all areas of the business. “I’m very hands-on, involved in every aspect of the brand,” she said. “I’m very particular about what goes out on social media because today, this window is as important as a commercial website. In fact, most of our sales are through mobile, so imagery on a small screen has to be impactful.”

There are areas of growth that have been surprising too, given the rise in the cost of living. “Demi-fine jewellery, that is to say plated jewellery, is still very popular, but over the past two few years, our fine jewellery category has been on the up and up,” Ong said. “We’ve seen our core demographic, aged between 25 and 45, really wanting to spend on investment pieces. For example, our solid gold initial necklace has been our out and out best-seller for three years.”

The other noticeable consumer change that Ong has noted is the growing desire for IRL (in real life) experiences. “We responded by launching a London pop-up recently, a ‘welding experience’ whereby customers can stop by and create a solid gold bracelet with two ends welded together, so a keepsake that can’t be broken.” Even with a £15 online deposit, the project has proved so popular that more DIY welding dates have been scheduled this summer. The jewellery line is also stocked at Selfridges in London.

“I like to wear jewellery all the time,” Ong said when asked about her favourite Edge of Ember pieces. “I have two kids, so I’m always on the go. I often wear the same pieces everyday. One thing I like jewellery to be is dependable and timeless. Something that makes me feel ‘put together’. In fact, that’s the whole premise of the brand. We make pieces that make you feel instantly chic without having to try too hard.”