Restaurant Rochechouart review: a quintessential Parisienne lunch

A short stroll from the dizzying heights of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica is Hôtel Rochechouart, an unassuming Art Deco gem that’s not to be missed for those new to Paris or long-time visitors. Set in the hip and happening Pigalle district (often referred to as SoPi by residents) and close to the bustling Rue des Martyrs and the Moulin Rouge, the hotel is ideally located, allowing you to get lost in the beautiful alleys of vibrant Montmartre before dipping into this hotspot on the famous Boulevard de Rochechouart.

Hôtel Rochechouart first opened as The Charleston in 1929, and it conceals a rich and illustrious history, with a whole host of famous intellectual and creative names said to have waltzed through its doors, among them Édith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier and Josephine Baker. Fast forward to October 2020, when it reopened, having been brought back to life by the French-based Orso Hotels group and Festen interior design – a minimalist, Paris-based design studio.

The interiors

We popped in for lunch on a quiet Tuesday afternoon and happily had the place almost to ourselves, save for a few well-heeled Parisians. Stepping past the hotel’s beautiful crimson and gold façade has a touch of understated glamour about it; a bit like stepping into a jazz-age time capsule. The designers took inspiration from the hotel itself, trying to recreate the ambience of 1930s Paris by restoring the authentic details of the historic building. The façade was stripped away to reveal the original design, and the mosaic floor and wrought iron lift have been lovingly restored.

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The hotel’s sensitive makeover manages to both evoke the La Belle Époque while still feeling modern and fresh. It is chic and understated, with ceiling fans, big mirrors on the wall, art deco vases and pretty vases of dried flowers on each table.

The food

The food – just like the interior – is quintessentially Parisienne without falling into worn cliché territory. The lunch menu is pleasingly simple; nothing pretentious or show-offy about it. It doesn’t need to be. The hotel prides itself on classic, traditional, seasonal dishes and doesn’t disappoint – it is simple and sophisticated, bistro and bourgeois, all at the same time.

We opt for poached eggs and mushrooms velouté and paté en croûte for our starters, followed by veal liver, venetian style, with sweet onions and fresh herbs, and steak tartare with homemade french fries. We wash it down with a dangerously smooth Côtes du Rhône. And just like that, an afternoon in Paris happily disappears.

We finish with crème brûlée – which was served to us in quite ordinary little glass pots, another sign of this restaurant’s confidence in its cooking, which does all the talking. They are creamy flawless perfection. Meanwhile, staff are attentive and friendly, and the atmosphere is relaxed, with lazy Motown tunes wafting overhead.

The hotel also boasts a rooftop bar open late for cocktails with tremendous views over Paris, plus a newly-opened oyster bar and legendary nightclub Le Mikado. This is not one to be missed.

Felicity Capon was a guest of Restaurant Rochechouart. Hôtel Rochechouart, 55 Boulevard de Rochechouart 75009, Paris, France; restaurantrochechouart.com