St Michaels Resort Falmouth review: laid back beach-chic vibes in Cornwall
Award-winning spa hotel serves up Cornish hospitality, cuisine and relaxation
Stepping through the doors of St Michaels Resort in Falmouth felt like a tonic at the start of the year. The wind may have been howling outside, but inside it was warm and welcoming, like a mug of tea or a hug from your mum.
It was first built as a private residence in the 1920s before being converted into a hotel a few decades later. The building was bought in a run-down state by Nigel and Julie Carpenter in 2001 and they have poured their love into the property ever since, making it one of the most well-known resorts in Cornwall while maintaining a laid back, unpretentious, beach-chic vibe.
Their efforts have been well rewarded, and St Michaels regularly features on lists of the UK’s best spa hotels, has four AA silver stars, two AA rosettes for culinary excellence, and most recently won gold for spa and wellbeing experience of the year at the South West Tourism Awards.
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Location
Falmouth is on the south Cornish coast and sits at the entrance to a beautiful natural harbour on the English Channel at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Together with neighbouring Carrick Roads, it is the third deepest natural harbour in the world and it has held an important position in the nation’s maritime history.
St Michaels Resort is situated across the road from the beautiful Gyllyngvase Beach, which is a haven for surfers, families and walkers alike. It is the ideal place to enjoy the water or just watch people brave the waves at all times of year. The Gylly Beach Cafe is a popular spot for a drink or some lunch with its beautiful terrace.
For a resort of this size you would expect to be outside of the town, but that is not the case. The harbour is less than a ten-minute walk away, and the centre is just a few minutes further, making it the perfect hotel to enjoy Falmouth’s amenities at the same time as having a beach right on your doorstep.
The rooms
I stayed in a luxury king room that comes with a sun deck with views over Gyllyngvase Beach and the channel, and was situated in a separate building away from the main hotel. The styling takes its inspiration from its coastal position, and the spacious room is furnished with white stained wood and a palette of blues and greys, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
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The bed is a super-king, with super-soft sheets, it has a Lavazza coffee machine, robes and a smart TV. The bathroom has a monsoon shower and full size Elemis toiletries, reducing the use of plastic. Double doors lead to an enormous terrace that is the perfect place to sip a coffee and watch the waves lap Gyllyngvase Beach.
Eating and drinking
St Michaels has two restaurants, including the Brasserie on the Bay, which serves elevated Cornish cuisine, and the health-focussed Garden Kitchen.
We ate in the brasserie (choice of two courses for £38 or three courses for £45), starting with the duck breast salad, and Turkish spiced aubergine, which was beautifully aromatic. For our mains we tried the West Country 8oz sirloin, which came with triple-cooked chips, garlic broccoli and peppercorn sauce, as well as the Newlyn hake fillet with sun-dried tomato potato cake.
The food was local, ingredients focussed, and well balanced, as well as being perfectly prepared. The steak was a particular highlight, and was tender and flavourful. St Michael’s brasserie is headed by Cornish chef Darren Millgate, who learned his trade in the south of France and is passionate about regional produce as diverse as ice cream made on the Zennor Coast or meat from Porthtowan. The drinks menu is no different, and has a list of locally-distilled gins as well as English fizz from Cornish vineyard Camel Valley.
Breakfast is also served in the brasserie and has both continental and cooked options. Hot dishes, like a full Cornish breakfast or eggs Benedict, are served à la carte, while the buffet features fresh croissants, fruits, cheeses and a make-your-own waffle station.
Spa and health club
You can’t come to St Michaels and not try out its award-winning spa. It features the largest hydrotherapy pool in the south west, as well as a herbal Finnish sauna, rainforest steam room, Cornish sea-salt room and an outdoor cedar wood hot tub and sauna.
You can also book a number of treatments from massages, to scrubs, to facials (from £40). I tried a custom Elemis massage, which was perfect for working out any tension. The pool wasn’t over crowded, and a menu of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks were available to enjoy while soaking in the bubbles.
Wellness is a huge part of the ethos at St Michaels and all guests are able to access the health club even without a spa booking. The club includes a 56ft swimming pool, sauna, and steam room, as well as a gym and fitness studios. There are more than 100 instructor-led classes each week, including some that are conducted in the gardens.
Things to do
Bustling student town Falmouth is consistently busy all year round and has plenty to offer visitors. Browse boutique stores on Church Street, try an artisan Cornish pasty in a cute cafe, or have a drink in a local tavern. Beerwolf Books is part-pub-part-bookshop, and full of locals trying local craft beers, while Finn M’Coul’s is a fun spot for a pint.
The National Maritime Museum is a must-see for those interested in all things nautical, and Falmouth Art Gallery is home to one of the leading collections in the south west, including old masters, English and French impressionists and leading surrealists. History buffs will also enjoy Pendennis Castle, which was built by Henry VIII and was designed to protect England against invaders from the continent.
Outside of the town, an hour’s drive will take you to Land’s End and its beautiful scenery, while the Lizard Peninsula is also worth exploring. You can also visit the county’s only city, Truro, as well as one of the many picturesque villages that dot the south coast. We chose to stop in Looe for lunch on the way home, as well as the beautiful Polperro Heritage Coast.
How to get here
Falmouth Town rail station is about a ten-minute walk away from the resort. Trains run regularly to Falmouth from London Paddington via Truro. The nearest airport is Newquay, which has regular flights from London Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester. If you’re travelling by car it’s approximately three-and-a-half hours from Bristol and five-and-a-half hours from London. Parking is available at the hotel.
Jaymi McCann was a guest of St Michaels Resort. Rates start from £139 per room per night based on two sharing on a B&B basis. Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 4NB; stmichaelsresort.com
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.