Sargent and Fashion: Tate Britain's new show 'spectacular' but 'myopic'
The exhibition puts the artist's 'interest in and skill with fashion' in the spotlight

John Singer Sargent was an artist who "clearly loved clothes", said Francesca Peacock in Prospect. His world "was one of lavish haute couture and costumed dress": an in-demand painter of society portraits, Sargent (1856-1925) specialised in likenesses "of society beauties in miles of silk" and "serious canvases of serious men" – themselves often no less lavishly attired. He played with the costumes in which he depicted his subjects, changing colours of garments to better suit a picture, and conjuring outfits from his imagination when models "only had rolls of fabric to pose with". Indeed, after altering the colour of a sitter's dress in one portrait, he proclaimed himself both "painter and dressmaker".
This new show at Tate Britain explores the artist's "interest in and skill with fashion", bringing together dozens of Sargent's best-known paintings to show how he used clothes "as a way of telling a story". Presented alongside many of these portraits are some of the actual garments worn by his sitters, and these lend a "material, fabric-y delight" to proceedings. It adds up to a "spectacular" exhibition.
Born in 1856 in Florence to American parents, Sargent was "cosmopolitan, ironic and sophisticated", said Jonathan Jones in The Guardian. Like his friend Henry James, he was "a great artist of identity, fascinated with the nature of social being", a painter of works that were "startling" and "modern".
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
There are some wonderful pictures here: his "fascinating" portrait of Lord Ribblesdale, for instance, is "a positively Sadean image of an aristocrat in top hat, black coat and boots, holding a riding crop he might be about to use on a horse or housemaid", while his Aline de Rothschild introduces us to a personality "full of life and wit".
Yet focusing on Sargent's relationship with fashion seems shallow and "myopic": the works here are "wretchedly displayed" and the garments add little to our understanding of his art, which can't be reduced to facts about hats, dresses and opera gowns. "This is a horrible exhibition."
The show "could have done with an edit", said Waldemar Januszczak in The Sunday Times. Some of the likenesses seem "interchangeable". And by "concentrating so fiercely on the clothes", Sargent often appears to have chosen to focus on surface over "depth" and "inner life".
And indeed his "most celebrated" and, at the time, most scandalous work – "Portrait of Madame X", showing a society lady in a revealing dress – is somewhat superficially "captivating". She's "90% fashion plate, 10% real person". Yet this exhibition is a wonderful exploration of Sargent as "an artistic impresario, an ambitious creator of looks and events". His work feels familiar in the age of social media. "Vacuous celebrities, absurdly expensive clothes, nobodies posing as somebodies – Sargent's world strikes a chord today because we recognise it so easily as our world."
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
5 costly cartoons about the national debt
Cartoons Political cartoonists take on the USA's financial hole, rare bipartisan agreement, and Donald Trump and Mike Johnson.
-
Green goddess salad recipe
The Week Recommends Avocado can be the creamy star of the show in this fresh, sharp salad
-
The Biden cover-up: a 'near-treasonous' conspiracy
Talking Point Using 'Trumpian' tactics, the former president's inner circle maintained a conspiracy of silence around his cognitive and physical decline
-
Green goddess salad recipe
The Week Recommends Avocado can be the creamy star of the show in this fresh, sharp salad
-
Fast-and-furious zombies, serial killer sharks and a matchmaking conundrum in June's new movies
the week recommends Danny Boyle is back with '28 Years Later' and Dakota Johnson has a Sophie's choice to make in 'Materialists'
-
Ancient India: living traditions – 'ethereal and sensual' exhibition
The Week Recommends Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism are explored in show that remains 'remarkably compact'
-
6 well-preserved homes built in the 1930s
Feature Featuring a restored 1934 colonial in Arizona and a cold-storage warehouse turned loft in New York City
-
Things in Nature Merely Grow: memoir of 'harsh beauty' after loss
The Week Recommends Chinese-American novelist Yiyun Li's 'devastating' memoir explores the deaths of her two sons
-
Sirens: entertaining satire on the lives of the ultra-wealthy stars Julianne Moore
The Week Recommends This 'blackly comic affair' unfurls at a 'breakneck speed'
-
Mrs Warren's Profession: 'tour-de-force' from Imelda Staunton and daughter Bessie Carter
The Week Recommends Mother-daughter duo bring new life to George Bernard Shaw's morality play
-
'Less is more' in The Fifth Step
The Week Recommends Jack Lowden from Slow Horses is 'staggeringly good' in this new production at London's @sohoplace