A luxury cruise along the Rhône
Leave behind the stresses of everyday life on a tranquil boat journey from Avignon to Lyon
I am reclining on my bed looking out at the Provençal countryside through a floor-to-ceiling glass window, as our boat, The Ravel, glides noiselessly along the Rhône. The feeling of calmness is all-enveloping on this ship, which is part of the Riverside Luxury Cruises fleet travelling languidly up and down Europe's great rivers.
The Ravel, which is the length of a football field, has just 55 bedrooms. So, invariably, it is no problem to locate a quiet corner on the Upper Vista Deck or relax by the small but enticing and surprisingly underpopulated indoor pool. The moment you step on board, the strains of everyday life seem to melt away; it's like living in the most supremely luxurious cocoon.
As the boat skims silently from Avignon to Lyon, the only sound we hear is the lapping of the waves against the sides. Every night this soothing rhythm gently lulls us to sleep. The next morning we wake refreshed and open the curtains to reveal another exquisite medieval town. Before long, I start to think, "I could get used to this."
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Eating and drinking
The first thing to say about eating on The Ravel is that there is no Captain's Table or forced jollity with other passengers. You are absolutely not obliged to go to any cabaret nights or to socialise with strangers – I can hear you shouting "hurray!" from here. It is easy to get the best seat in the house at a peaceful table by the window and while away the time in the company of the person you have actually chosen to go on the trip with.
The food at the elegant Waterside Restaurant, whose walls, carpets and curtains are appealingly decorated with wavy designs, is top-notch. The sumptuous breakfast buffet stretches as far as the eye can see, and the nightly five-course dinner – with wine pairing – is a thing of rare culinary splendour. Every detail has been thought through, from the choice of four exquisite flavoured butters – truffle, anyone? – to the wondrous selection of local produce.
Memorable dishes include the risotto Camargue with beef chorizo, aromatic herbs and extra-virgin olive oil, and tarte au reblochon with red onion compote and truffle honey. Every item on the menu is handmade and the chef says the word “convenience” is taboo. He has clearly never visited my kitchen.
One evening when the boat is moored in Viviers, we are served a terrific barbecue dinner on the Upper Vista Deck. I sample what is surely the most delicious Omaha Ribeye outside of Omaha. Even better, we are serenaded by a fun local mariachi band which wanders from table to table treating diners to everything from "Volare" to "La Bamba."
Service
The service on The Ravel is ridiculously good. For example, as we travel past the celebrated vineyard of Châteauneuf-du-Pape one evening, I casually mention to Elvin, our wonderfully attentive butler – I know – that this area produces my favourite wine.
I think nothing more of it until I return to our bedroom after dinner to find, quite unprompted, Elvin has left us a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the bedside table. That's what I call service.
It is this level of care that it is all too easy to become accustomed to. The ship's manager says we can ask for anything, from non-allergic pillows to paraben-free shampoo. He's not joking. Nothing is too much trouble for the superb staff.
Excursions
The Ravel makes several stops in idyllic medieval towns along the Rhône, including Avignon, Viviers, and Arles – the lovely Roman town where Vincent van Gogh created some of his most memorable work.
The countryside is heavenly, too. If you go for a stroll outside the towns, you instantly feel like an extra in "Jean de Florette", accompanied wherever you go by the shimmering sun and constant thrum of cicadas. On our return to The Ravel after every excursion, we are greeted by a welcome party of staff holding out a cold towel and a glass of buck's fizz. They must have read our minds.
The verdict
A Riverside Luxury Cruise – the company's three ships also travel along picturesque routes on the Rhine, Danube and Saône – very much has a "trip of a lifetime" feel to it. Lots of people on board are marking wedding anniversaries and landmark birthdays.
It is easy to understand why people would want to take such a celebratory trip. The boat is the ultimate "get-away-from-it-all" vessel. It's a beautiful way to see a beautiful part of the world.
James Rampton was the guest of Riverside Luxury Cruises. Prices start from £1,566 per person for a four-night trip; riverside-cruises.com
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