A restorative retreat in northern Norway
Fortunate travellers may catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights from this stunning archipelago

Perched above the Arctic Circle in northern Norway, the Lofoten Islands are one of the great "end-of-the-world archipelagos", known for their towering, serrated mountains, wild seas and lonely white-sand beaches.
My husband and I visited in March, following a health scare, said Sophy Roberts in the FT, and found the trip restorative. That was partly thanks to the islands' vast silences and the "awesome scale" of the landscape – and partly because we stayed at an excellent hotel. Holmen Lofoten is set beside the sea in the village of Sørvågen, where its owner, Ingunn Rasmussen, grew up. She is the daughter of a local fisherman, and the hotel is largely made of refurbished fishermen's cabins. They are "close to perfect" – "simple" but "cosy", with wood burners and soft wool blankets.
Between late August and April, you might see the Northern Lights swooshing past your cabin's big windows. During the day, you can go hiking – we climbed well above the treeline for a picnic beside a frozen lake, guided by Ingunn's brother, Audun, who recalled hunting for hare and ptarmigan there as a child. And when the seas are calm, there are fishing trips to enjoy. We sailed out past the village of Å, at the archipelago's furthest end, into the sea channel known as Moskstraumen. Some guests spot orca there – we didn't, but we did pass close to one of the world's strongest whirlpools, which is said to have inspired Edgar Allen Poe's 1841 short story A Descent into the Maelström.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Back at Holmen, we ate "delicious" dinners, "delicately put together" by the head chef, Richard Cox, a Briton whose passion is "hyperlocal ingredients", from ceps and lingonberries to cod and lamb. His pantry shelves are crowded with jars of fermented vegetables and flower syrups (including wild camomile, fireweed, and meadowsweet), about which you can learn more on one of the hotel's regular, five-day gastronomic retreats, co-created by the chef Valentine Warner.
A three-night stay costs from £780 per person, b&b (holmenlofoten.no).
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
How to create a healthy 'germier' home
Under The Radar Exposure to a broad range of microbes can enhance our immune system, especially during childhood
-
George Floyd: Did Black Lives Matter fail?
Feature The momentum for change fades as the Black Lives Matter Plaza is scrubbed clean
-
National debt: Why Congress no longer cares
Feature Rising interest rates, tariffs and Trump's 'big, beautiful' bill could sent the national debt soaring
-
A city of culture in the high Andes
The Week Recommends Cuenca is a must-visit for those keen to see the 'real Ecuador'
-
Your inner romper is going to wild out at these 7 adult summer camps
The Week Recommends You're never too old to go back to camp
-
What to know about Real IDs, America's new identification cards
The Explainer People without a Real ID cannot board a commercial flight as of May 7, 2025
-
How to travel with your dog
The Week Recommends These tips will help both of you have a great time
-
Exploring the three great gardens of Japan
The Week Recommends Beautiful gardens are 'the stuff of Japanese landscape legends'
-
6 stellar noctourism adventures
The Week Recommends After the sun sets, the fun begins
-
6 hotels with amenities that blow the usual gifts out of the water
The Week Recommends You can have a butler walk your dog and a guitar sent to your room. But you cannot have your guitar walked.
-
6 excellent sleeping bags for campers seeking comfort
The Week Recommends Have sweet dreams in these snug bags