A visit to the Northwest Passage
From whale watching to hiking there is a lot to do in this remote land
The camp known as Arctic Watch lies at 74 degrees north on a large bay overlooking the Northwest Passage, said Ruaridh Nicoll in the Financial Times. Run since 1999 by the Webers, a family of polar explorers, it sleeps 25 in tents made of aluminium and canvas, and on beds "thick with fleece and blanket". The people who choose to visit this remote place are a mixed bunch: on my visit, I met a surgeon who had pioneered stent technology, a retired murder detective and an art dealer.
To reach the camp, you have to fly for three hours from Yellowknife, "the already remote capital of Canada's Northwest Territories", but it's worth the journey: I knew I was going to love it the moment the plane landed. A key draw is that every summer – "all seven weeks of it" – beluga whales turn the bay into their personal kindergarten. But there is much to do besides watch whales congregate. On a walk on the Northwest Passage itself, the icy route across the north of the Americas that has claimed so many lives, we search in the distance for "patches of yellow" – and one eventually resolves itself into a polar bear and its cub. Hiking through "ground-hugging" Arctic willow back on land, we spot muskoxen, and gather clumps of their qiviut, "wool so warm that it seems to heat the hand". A chopper is also available to fly guests south, to see icebergs and narwhals, and "fly-fish for sea-run Arctic char".
Before leaving this "unique and precarious" place, I go on a group kayaking trip. "We start in a gorge, the never-setting Sun making green glass of the water. But after several hours, a fog rolls off the passage and I become separated from the others." I happily thread my own way, safe in the knowledge that the camp and its "vast dinner and hot-water bottle" aren't far. "But for now, I am immersed in endless shades of silver – glistening fog, sparkling rock, mercurial water."
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Sign up to The Week's Travel newsletter for destination guides and the latest trends
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The right to die: what can we learn from other countries?
The Explainer A look at the world's assisted dying laws as MPs debate Kim Leadbeater's proposed bill
By The Week Published
-
Volkswagen on the ropes: a crisis of its own making
Talking Point The EV revolution has 'left VW in the proverbial dust'
By The Week UK Published
-
Crossword: November 10, 2024
The Week's daily crossword
By The Week Staff Published
-
Juror #2: Clint Eastwood's 'cleverly constructed' courtroom drama is 'rock solid'
The Week Recommends Nicholas Hoult stars in 'morally complex' film about a juror on a high-profile murder case
By The Week UK Published
-
Explore a timeless corner of Spain by bike
The Week Recommends Take a 'dawdling route through the back-country' far from the tourism hotspots
By The Week UK Published
-
Saoirse Ronan: how the actress went viral
In the Spotlight The actress dropped a 'chat-icide bomb' on Graham Norton's BBC show
By The Week UK Published
-
Edmund de Waal on this year's Booker Prize shortlist
The Week Recommends The chair of judges details works by Rachel Kushner, Percival Everett and others
By The Week UK Published
-
Griddled salmon and vegetables with miso and melted butter recipe
The Week Recommends Hokkaido comfort food classic with a delicious twist
By The Week UK Published
-
Shattered: Hanif Kureishi's 'inspirational' memoir of accident that left him paralysed
The Week Recommends 'Exhilarating' book is composed of diary entries dictated to his son Carlo
By The Week UK Published
-
Dr. Strangelove: is stage adaptation of iconic film a 'foolish' move?
Talking Point Steve Coogan puts on a dazzling performance in show that falls short of 'the real thing'
By The Week UK Published
-
Small Things Like These: 'stylish' Irish drama 'casts a powerful spell'
The Week Recommends 'Stylish' drama starring Cillian Murphy as a devoted father
By The Week UK Published