Asturias: cool summers and verdant landscapes

The mountains of the Picos de Europa soar up to 2,650 metres

(Image credit: Fernando Camino / Cover / Getty Images)

published 7 April 2024

With its glorious Atlantic beaches, "verdant" mountains and elegant cities, Asturias is among Spain's loveliest regions. Owing to its "chilly and rainy" climate, it has never been a very popular summer holiday destination for British tourists, but as the climate changes, and swathes of southern Europe become uncomfortably hot in July and August, a rethink may be in order, says Paul Richardson in the FT. As elsewhere on Spain's north coast, you will still get summer drizzle; when you do, my advice is to get in the car and drive up into the mountains – the craggy Picos de Europa, soaring to 2,650 metres. You could visit the vast first-growth deciduous woodlands of Fuentes del Narcea, or head to one of the region's wonderful "rustic" restaurants, such as El Llar de Viri, in San Román.

The region has "a trio of fine cities". First, "ebullient, surftastic" Gijón. Second, "handsome" Avilés, rescued from its "post-industrial slump" in 2011 by the opening of the Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre, a group of "sculptural" white buildings by the Brazilian architect that host a "packed programme" of art, music, dance and cinema. And third, the "charming, buttoned-up" capital Oviedo. Asturias has 12 Michelin stars at 11 restaurants (two for Casa Marcial, in La Salgar), but the "real joy" of eating here is the "simplicity and heartiness" of the local cooking – not least at Oviedo's chigres (homely bars), "timeworn" institutions where you might also try the area's famous cider.

Among Asturias's other treasures are its pre-Romanesque churches (the "tiny" Santa Cristina de Lena is particularly moving in its humility), its brown bears (best seen with a professional guide – look up Somiedo Experience, for instance, or Steppes Travel), and its beaches (my favourites include playas Torimbia, Barayo and del Silencio, all wonderfully wild and lonely). And there are good new places to stay, including the "sensitively reconfigured" Solo Palacio, and the Faro de Cudillero, a lighthouse with two "well-appointed" apartments opening in June.