The jewel of Colombia's Caribbean coast
Cartagena is a stunning city and one of the country's most popular destinations

Set on a headland beside the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena is Colombia's most "magical" colonial city, said Stephanie Rafanelli in The Times, and one of the most beautiful in the Americas.
Founded in 1533, it was the main port of the Spanish empire, a fabulously wealthy entrepôt for gold and slaves. Its old town is wonderfully well preserved – a warren of cobbled streets, domed churches and mansions "the colour of watermelon and papaya", surrounded by seven miles of fortified coral stone walls. But though its architecture is Spanish, almost half of its population is of African descent, and its culture reflects both of these roots.
Tourism in Colombia has flourished since the government struck a peace deal with the guerrilla group Farc eight years ago, and Cartagena is the country's most popular destination. A Four Seasons hotel is due to open soon, but I stayed at Casa Pestagua, a boutique hotel in a 17th-century mansion, with a pool in a "palmed Moorish-style courtyard". It was a good base from which to explore the city, including its restaurant scene.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
In recent years, Colombia's chefs have embraced the country's diverse produce and culinary traditions as never before, and among the pioneers is Jaime Rodríguez, co-founder of Celele, in Cartagena. Located in the atmospheric old working-class neighbourhood of Getsemani, it currently stands at 16th in Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list.
Cartagena has some good museums, of which the most distinctive is the Museo del Oro Zenú, where you can see the exquisite creations of the region's pre-Colombian goldsmiths. When you've seen the sights, there is a good place to kick back nearby – the Rosario Islands, 45 minutes by speedboat from the city. Casa Pestagua has its own outpost here, Acasi Rustic Beach. Its six cabins sit beside a private beach, with an outdoor restaurant. I found the place enchanting – not least in the evenings, when there is a chance of spotting "ghostly flashes of bioluminescence" playing across the water.
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The Roses: Olivia Colman and Benedict Cumberbatch star in black comedy reboot
The Week Recommends 'Acidly enjoyable' remake of the 1980s classic features a warring couple and toxic love
-
Why reports of Donald Trump's demise are greatly exaggerated
In The Spotlight US president has once again brushed aside rumours that he's dead
-
Lose yourself in these magnificent mazes
The Week Recommends These fiendishly clever puzzles aren't just for kids
-
The Roses: Olivia Colman and Benedict Cumberbatch star in black comedy reboot
The Week Recommends 'Acidly enjoyable' remake of the 1980s classic features a warring couple and toxic love
-
Film reviews: The Roses, Splitsville, and Twinless
Feature A happy union devolves into domestic warfare, a couple's open marriage reaps chaos, and an unlikely friendship takes surprising turns
-
Music reviews: Laufey, Deftones, and Earl Sweatshirt
Feature "A Matter of Time," "Private Music," and "Live Laugh Love"
-
6 products and apps to help fight jet lag
The Week Recommends Don't let travel fatigue drag you down
-
Woof! Britain's love affair with dogs
The Explainer The UK's canine population is booming. What does that mean for man's best friend?
-
8 hotels that show off the many facets of Japan
The Week Recommends Choose your own modern or traditional adventure
-
Millet: Life on the Land – an 'absorbing' exhibition
The Week Recommends Free exhibition at the National Gallery showcases the French artist's moving paintings of rural life
-
Thomasina Miers picks her favourite books
The Week Recommends The food writer shares works by Arundhati Roy, Claire Keegan and Charles Dickens