Set on a headland beside the Caribbean Sea, Cartagena is Colombia's most "magical" colonial city, said Stephanie Rafanelli in The Times, and one of the most beautiful in the Americas.
Founded in 1533, it was the main port of the Spanish empire, a fabulously wealthy entrepôt for gold and slaves. Its old town is wonderfully well preserved – a warren of cobbled streets, domed churches and mansions "the colour of watermelon and papaya", surrounded by seven miles of fortified coral stone walls. But though its architecture is Spanish, almost half of its population is of African descent, and its culture reflects both of these roots.
Tourism in Colombia has flourished since the government struck a peace deal with the guerrilla group Farc eight years ago, and Cartagena is the country's most popular destination. A Four Seasons hotel is due to open soon, but I stayed at Casa Pestagua, a boutique hotel in a 17th-century mansion, with a pool in a "palmed Moorish-style courtyard". It was a good base from which to explore the city, including its restaurant scene.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Cartagena has some good museums, of which the most distinctive is the Museo del Oro Zenú, where you can see the exquisite creations of the region's pre-Colombian goldsmiths. When you've seen the sights, there is a good place to kick back nearby – the Rosario Islands, 45 minutes by speedboat from the city. Casa Pestagua has its own outpost here, Acasi Rustic Beach. Its six cabins sit beside a private beach, with an outdoor restaurant. I found the place enchanting – not least in the evenings, when there is a chance of spotting "ghostly flashes of bioluminescence" playing across the water.
-
‘My donation felt like a rejection of the day’s politics’Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
-
Trump wants a weaker dollar but economists aren’t so sureTalking Points A weaker dollar can make imports more expensive but also boost gold
-
Political cartoons for February 3Cartoons Tuesday’s political cartoons include empty seats, the worst of the worst of bunnies, and more
-
Exploring Vilnius, the green-minded Lithuanian capital with endless festivals, vibrant history and a whole lot of pink soupThe Week Recommends The city offers the best of a European capital
-
The best fan fiction that went mainstreamThe Week Recommends Fan fiction websites are a treasure trove of future darlings of publishing
-
The Beckhams: the feud dividing BritainIn the Spotlight ‘Civil war’ between the Beckhams and their estranged son ‘resonates’ with families across the country
-
6 homes with incredible balconiesFeature Featuring a graceful terrace above the trees in Utah and a posh wraparound in New York City
-
The 8 best hospital dramas of all timethe week recommends From wartime period pieces to of-the-moment procedurals, audiences never tire of watching doctors and nurses do their lifesaving thing
-
The Flower Bearers: a ‘visceral depiction of violence, loss and emotional destruction’The Week Recommends Rachel Eliza Griffiths’ ‘open wound of a memoir’ is also a powerful ‘love story’ and a ‘portrait of sisterhood’
-
Steal: ‘glossy’ Amazon Prime thriller starring Sophie TurnerThe Week Recommends The Game of Thrones alumna dazzles as a ‘disillusioned twentysomething’ whose life takes a dramatic turn during a financial heist
-
Anna Ancher: Painting Light – a ‘moving’ exhibitionThe Week Recommends Dulwich Picture Gallery show celebrates the Danish artist’s ‘virtuosic handling of the shifting Nordic light’
