Elounda: coastal calm in eastern Crete

Nestled about an hour east of Crete's Heraklion airport lies the sleepy town of Elounda. More of a coastal village, really, it's stretched out around a quiet, sweeping bay, protected from the wind and sea by a couple of islands which form a serene, natural cove.

With the smallest of waves lapping gently at its pebbled shore, it's a great spot for families. It's hard to avoid tourists on the Cretan coast unless you face the drive down south but Elounda seems to do a good job of feeling authentic: there are few shops selling beach-tat, no late-night spots, and, in the restaurants, both visitors and locals mix. The central part falls slightly more victim to tourism but, up at the northern end, it feels much calmer.

Ultra-steep hills lead down to the bay, meaning a slightly hairy drive in (particularly if you make the mistake of taking the back route, as we did) but you'll be rewarded with spectacular views. Crete is famous for these: the hills at dusk are all blues, violets and blacks; the sky a hundred shades of pink and orange where the sun hits the Aegean.

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Where to stay

To get the best views, you'll want to track down one of the region's luxe hotels. Domes Aulus Elounda, a luxurious adults-only affair, is located up a steep hillside track that really puts a hire car through its paces. Low-slung buildings built into the hill are the colour of wet clay, fitting in with the dusty browns and silvery greens of the olive trees across the landscape. It's easy to imagine the Greek gods and goddesses strolling across these hills or resting in the caves that dot the terrain.

Rooms offer understated Greek elegance, with soft linens and floor-to-ceiling windows revealing spectacular views of the rolling hills, dusty mountains and sparkling Aegean. The hotel is wonderfully quiet, aside from the wind which rustles through the shrubby trees, and the blue waters lapping in your swim-up pool.

The sister hotel, Domes of Elounda, is classy and very family-friendly. Another steep track sweeps up to the hotel's sprawling reception, restaurant and bar area. Drop your car with the concierge, and a buggy will whisk you to your accommodation. With earthy red daub on the outside, these quiet, secluded suites and villas are domed on top, reminiscent of Greece's ancient churches, and some have private pools.

Inside, the lounge areas are bedecked in natural linens, soft throws and pillows. Wooden fixtures and sandy-veined Greek marble floors set a tone of rustic luxury, while expansive balconies offer exquisite views of Spinalonga and the bay.

Eating and drinking

The food at Domes Aulus's rooftop restaurant, Amphiteàtro Tesoro Mio & ΠΙΤΑ Canteen, is a highlight. Begin your day with a selection of Greek and Mediterranean staples – Manouri cheese, cured sardines, olives, and (of course) Greek salads – and finish it with a late-night drink under the stars.

There are several restaurants at Domes of Elounda, including one serving a fantastic buffet where you can eat as much feta as your heart desires. There's also the Blend Nikkei & Wine, for Japanese/Peruvian fusion food, and the All Day Breeze Beach Lounge. Additionally, there's a 'food truck' court with a bunch of different stalls offering everything from burritos to pizza.

It would be remiss not to recommend Xerokarmares, a family-owned restaurant that's perfect for a stop-off between Elounda and Heraklion airport. You'll eat among Cretans having a long lunch under the olive trees. The wood oven serves up slow-roasted meats, whilst the traditional kettles, cooked over fires, are full of slow-cooked stews. Fresh salads and dips round out the meal beautifully.

What to see and do

Dominating Elounda's bay is Spinalonga Island, a fascinating historical site that speaks to Crete's layered past. Originally an old Venetian fort, it became a refuge for persecuted Muslims and then, in the early 20th century, a leper colony. This craggy rock, covered with squat, temple-like buildings, sandy stone, and dark, foreboding windows, is just a short boat trip from the town, and provides a fantastic backdrop to your stay.

The verdict

Whether you're seeking a family-friendly retreat or a pampered escape, Elounda offers a harmonious blend of natural beauty, rich history and understated elegance. From its tranquil bay to its hillside sanctuaries, this hidden gem in eastern Crete promises an unforgettable stay.

William Leigh was a guest at Domes Aulus Elounda (from £213 per night for a Tropical Nest), and Domes of Elounda (from £276 for a Core Open Plan Suite).