Hôtel du Couvent: a tranquil hideaway in the French Riviera

I have been visiting the French town of Nice at least once a year for most of the past two decades. For reasons I can't explain, the city called to me, from my school French textbooks, until I finally arrived as a 20-year-old backpacker in 2003. Since then, I've been back regularly, for sojourns ranging from a few hours to a few months, and it never fails to delight.

I've spent much of that time, as many visitors do, in the Old Town. I never really paid attention to the high walls at the bottom of the Colline du Château, nor imagined what was behind them. When I heard it was, in fact, an ancient convent and that 10 years had been spent converting it into a design-led luxury hotel, I knew my next visit would have to include time there. Welcome to Hôtel du Couvent.

Why stay here?

The more opulent hotels in Nice tend to be on the western side of the city, across the park from the Old Town and Port area, where most of the main attractions, and the majority of the evening entertainment, are. The vast estate that now plays host to Hôtel du Couvent is placed almost exactly in between, meaning it's a simple stroll to the fashion district or the beach during the day, and a gentle (albeit uphill) stagger home from the bars at the end of the night.

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The hotel itself is exquisitely designed. There's none of the frills and extravagance usually found in Riviera luxury properties; rather, attention has been paid to the former use of the building and inspiration drawn from there. Original stonework is everywhere – bringing coolness in the scorching heat of the day – and subtle colour schemes and soft furnishings temper the monastic feel of the layout. And then there's the garden. The nuns who once lived here kept a huge kitchen garden on the terraces that run up the hill, so today the hotel does the same. Walking round it in mid-morning, listening to the birds and letting the scent of pine and eucalyptus and too many herbs to name fill your nostrils, borders on the spiritual.

Eating and drinking

The day begins with fresh bread and pastries, prepared on site in the nun's old bakery and served at the simply-named Le Restaurant. Lunch and dinner are also available here. Other dining options throughout your stay are quite varied, including Le Bistrot des Serruriers, located in the exterior wall of the grounds. This is a charming addition to the hotel offering, and part of their quest to be part of the neighbourhood as well as a place for tourists; at first glance, it could just be another quaint Old Town eatery. Lunch and early-afternoon aperitifs can be enjoyed in La Guingette, at the top terrace of the garden or, if you have a larger suite with a kitchen, you can even order fresh ingredients from the hotel's farm to cook yourself or have the chef prepare. Whichever option you go for, expect freshness, seasonality and the attention to detail found in all great French kitchens.

Things to do

The hotel's location means exploring from here is easy. Climb the steep steps just outside the gate to reach the Château viewpoint and descend the other side of the hill to find the port. From here, head north to find the Matisse museum or further east to see more spectacular views of the bay from Mont Boron. In the opposite direction, and involving far less climbing, are the narrow winds of the Old Town itself – Église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur is often overlooked but is worth skipping the cathedral for – before the cool, green space of the Jardin Albert 1er and the chic boutiques that line the streets behind the seafront.

Or you could do nothing. Beneath the reception is The Roman Baths, a thermal circuit which will set your body into relaxation mode. Then you can head into the gardens to find a shady spot to nap and read a book. There's an outdoor pool up there (pictured below) to cool off in when the sun is at its peak, and the whole space does not feel part of a city at all.

The verdict

My hopes were dangerously high when I arrived at Hôtel de Couvent. Thankfully, they were exceeded. Every inch of the hotel is beautiful, even down to the vintage glassware in your minibar. The staff, decked out in uniforms that echo ecclesiastical robes and look far more comfortable than usual hospitality attire, are gentle and welcoming, and wandering about feels like traversing your own country estate. You'd never guess that, just outside those enormous walls, is one of the most vibrant party neighbourhoods in Europe.

Nick was a guest at Hotel du Couvent, Nice: hotelducouvent.com