When it comes to hotel room views, it doesn’t get much better than having your own private wildlife show. That’s exactly what you get at Chester Zoo, where the new safari-style Giraffe View lodges let you stay overnight overlooking the sandy enclosure where the male giraffes live.
“That’s Meru,” our friendly concierge tells us as we drop off our bags in our room. Beyond the glass, across a small rocky strip of water, the zoo’s eldest giraffe is craning his impossibly long, elegant neck up to a hanging basket of foliage and methodically stripping the branches of their bark. Below him, a smaller, paler giraffe – (Stanley, we soon find out) – prods his shoulder, demanding attention. It’s a mesmerising sight.
Cosy lodges with stellar views
Sliding glass doors open out on to your own private balcony
(Image credit: The Reserve at Chester Zoo)
The Reserve only opened last year, but the entire experience already feels like a well-oiled machine. We didn’t arrive until check-in, but wished we had got there earlier when we realised just how much there was to see. As well as an overnight stay in a luxury lodge, the After Hours package includes a two-day zoo pass. Guests get early access on both days from 9am (an hour earlier than the general public) to the Heart of Africa zone – a sprawling 22-acre habitat designed to mimic African grasslands. It’s home to more than 50 animal species, including zebras, rhinos, vultures, antelopes, and, of course, giraffes.
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On arrival, we were given wristbands giving us exclusive access to The Reserve, and were whisked straight out on to the terrace overlooking the lakeside lodges for our welcome drinks. We opted for the Kenyan-inspired dawa cocktail: a refreshing – and surprisingly strong! – blend of vodka, lime, honey and sugar syrup. Despite being April in Cheshire, sitting out on the bright, sunny terrace, it really did feel like we were on safari (or what I would imagine it’s like, as a safari novice).
The lodges themselves are comfortable and modern, decorated in calming shades of oatmeal with plenty of natural wood and pretty rattan wall hangings. But the real draw is the views: floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors open out on to your own private balcony where you can watch the giraffes amble around the paddock. Perfect for families, a cute stuffed toy giraffe is also waiting on the bed.
An after-hours tour to remember
After watching the giraffes, there is much more to see in the after-hours tour
(Image credit: The Reserve at Chester Zoo)
It’s easy for hours to slip by while you sit and watch the giraffes but we managed to tear ourselves away from our lodge for the after-hours tour. Every member of staff we met at Chester Zoo was warm, friendly and, above all, passionate about what they do. Ranger Ben was no exception. Together with another couple staying at The Reserve, we set off to explore the Heart of Africa zone – stopping off at the various enclosures to learn about the animals and their quirks.
We pass the female giraffes (Tula, we learn, is a “diva”, while Kanzee is the “adventurous” one), and stop to look at the inquisitive yellow mongooses, Cinnamon and Saffron. Perhaps most memorable of all are the aardvarks; they’re nocturnal so they’re still sleeping when we visit at dusk but peering into their cave we manage to catch a glimpse of their strange pink feet with shovel-like claws dangling in the air.
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Next, we head into the Hidden Savannah – an indoor space where a colony of naked mole-rats are huddled together sleeping. We can’t spot the African bullfrog at first but soon find he’s blending in beneath a log, staying completely still as he lays in wait for his prey. There’s just time to stop off for a talk with another ranger, Ewan, who shows us the “enrichment” puzzles and feeders used to engage the lions and monkeys, and tells us about Chester Zoo’s biggest conservation projects, including work supporting the monitoring of giant anteaters in Brazil.
Back at The Reserve that evening, there’s a range of activities for guests. We opted for the Pangolin Talk, where Ben told us about the zoo’s research tracking critically endangered giant pangolins in southwest Uganda. (Ewan reappeared too, with a slightly unnerving giant pangolin puppet.) The only snag was our evening meal, which, after the incredible day we’d had, was disappointing and didn’t live up to the quality of the rest of our stay.
Skipping the crowds with early access
The Heart of Africa zone is home to more than 50 animal species including zebras, rhinos and antelopes
(Image credit: The Reserve at Chester Zoo)
Thankfully, breakfast was much better, with a selection of pastries, fresh fruit and cooked traditional classics. Determined to make the most of the early access this time, we set out at 9am to explore the rest of the zoo. This felt really special: many of the animals we hadn’t been able to see the night before were just waking up and we could get to the best viewing spots before the crowds arrived.
Chester Zoo was recently voted the best zoo in the UK and it’s easy to see why. Spanning 130 acres, the sprawling site is home to some of the biggest habitats in Europe and with so much more space the animals looked happier and more relaxed than those in the old Victorian cages in London. It’s also a non-profit carrying out some incredible conservation work around the world, teaming up with local partners to support crucial research projects everywhere from Mexico to Madagascar.
There is so much to see and you really will need to get there early to have any hope of getting around the entire zoo. But the memory that will stay with me the longest is waking up, drawing back the curtains, and seeing two majestic giraffes amble right past the window. It’s an experience that will be difficult to top without getting on a plane to explore the countries and wildlife in Africa.
Irenie was a guest at The Reserve at Chester Zoo, chesterzoo.org
Irenie Forshaw is the features editor at The Week, covering arts, culture and travel. She began her career in journalism at Leeds University, where she wrote for the student newspaper, The Gryphon, before working at The Guardian and The New Statesman Group. Irenie then became a senior writer at Elite Traveler, where she oversaw The Experts column.
