Tartu: Estonia's lesser-known cultural hub

Estonia's second-biggest city is finally having its moment in the spotlight. Crowned one of three European Capitals of Culture for 2024, Tartu is located around 100 miles south of the buzzing capital, Tallinn, and is home to the country's oldest and largest university.

"There's much to like about Tartu," said Ben West in The Times. "Easy on the wallet", with a "studious yet youthful vibe", here you can fill the days wandering along the banks of the Emajõgi River, exploring the small Baltic city's neighbourhoods and marvelling at the impressive architecture.

Its "charming" cobbled streets in the old town, coupled with its close proximity to the "wild landscapes" of southern Estonia, make Tartu one of the most "underrated" destinations in the region, said Berkok Yüksel in National Geographic.

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Brimming with galleries, museums and arts venues, the city is hosting over 1,000 events and exhibitions throughout the year to celebrate its capital of culture designation. 

What to do

Start off by visiting the city's central Town Hall Square, where you'll find the Tartu Art Museum, "affectionately" known as "the leaning house" or the Pisa Tower of Tartu, said National Geographic. Built next to the mediaeval city wall in 1793, the museum hosts a year-round exhibition of Estonian art.

Be sure to explore Supilinn (Soup Town) – formerly one of Europe's oldest slums, now filled with "beautifully preserved" wooden houses, said The Times. Situated just north of the city centre on the right bank of Emajõgi River, this "leafy and tranquil" neighbourhood is filled with pretty gardens and colourful street art.

It's also well worth visiting Aparaaditehas, said Siobhan Reid in Vogue. The "Soviet-era factory turned beehive of creativity" is home to a collection of contemporary art galleries, alongside the popular Müürilille flea market.

Another "essential stop" is the Estonian National Museum, set within an "angular glass and concrete building" on a former Soviet airbase just outside the city. Spend "at least two hours" exploring its "airy exhibition halls" filled with fascinating artefacts from Estonia's history.

Where to eat and drink

Located behind the Town Hall Square inside Hotel Lydia, Hõlm has an open kitchen that allows diners to watch chefs "painstakingly decorate dishes" while waiting staff offer "lengthy explanations" about the plates of food, said Isabel Choat in The Guardian. "It's a little over the top – but the food is undeniably good". Look out for the "creamy" yuzu mousse with soured cream ice cream.

If you spend an afternoon in Supilinn, be sure to stop at Kakk, said The Times. During the day, the "cosy cafe with a mish-mash of vintage furniture" serves delicious pastries and "wholesome" vegan soup; at night it transforms into an "atmospheric" bar with live music.

Or, for an "impressive" selection of cocktails and light bites, head to Cafe Truffe in Tartu's old town. Dishes span everything from Ukrainian dumplings to crispy artichokes with Parmesan and truffle mayonnaise.

Where to stay

Set within the former site of Estonia's first art school, Art Hotel Pallas pays tribute to its history through the "vibrant murals" that decorate its "stylish" rooms, said National Geographic. A five-minute walk from the historic centre, the boutique hotel is the perfect base for exploring the city.

"Effortlessly" blending comfort and style, Hotel Lydia is located by Tartu's main square and looks out over the "pretty, wooded" Toomemagi Hill, said The Times. Major draws include the easy access to Hõlm restaurant, and the hotel's tranquil spa with an indoor gym, pool and sauna.