Andrea Nguyen’s 2006 debut, “Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors,” is an intermixture of the personal and the practical. She opens the book with the following scene: “We heard the plane coming in low, and I was scared. Mom grabbed me, pulling me underneath the staircase as a bomb exploded nearby. I shrieked, believing the end was near.”
The rare turned common That opener took place in Saigon in April 1975, when Nguyen was 6 years old. Two weeks later, her family was loaded on a plane that landed in Southern California. Life, and with it, the family’s cooking, was upended.
One makes do, and new traditions are born. Western noodles, like fresh fettuccine, and butter were luxury items in Saigon. Thus, noodles with butter went from a rare novelty to a kitchen staple. Nguyen shows the reader how to dress just-boiled noodles with umami-laden Maggi sauce, then warm garlic in melted butter, adding the noodles and tossing. Cabbage also receives special status in the family’s new home, because “cool-season crops such as cabbage and cauliflower are difficult to grow” in Vietnam.
Icons dissected This is not only a Nguyen tale. Classics from the diasporic Vietnamese repertoire are included too, like an exemplary version of bo kho (beef stew). Salmon, shrimp, catfish and chicken are braised in recipes using the bittersweet burnt-caramel sauce known as nuoc mau. Pho is here; bun (rice noodles) are as well, alongside grilled pork and punchy herbs, and in comforting soups with crab or beef. In Nguyen’s text, you will be guided by sure hands. |