The Galvins bring homegrown produce to The Athenaeum
Chef-restaurateur Chris Galvin on stepping up to the plate and putting native fare on the menu at Mayfair's family-owned five-star hotel
British food has always had a bit of a bad reputation. Traditionally, we Brits ate to live whereas on the Continent, they live to eat. I wrote a dissertation on the history of our national fare for my degree and discovered that because we were always fighting off invaders, we had to produce food to feed our armies rather than to give ourselves pleasure. Jeff [Galvin's brother and fellow chef] and I did tons of research on native cooking before launching our first Galvin Hop pub and restaurant in Spitalfields, London, earlier this year so we were well primed for The Athenaeum.
I was always aware of the hotel – I did my apprenticeship at the Ritz on Piccadilly in the 1980s and then, in the early 1990s, moved to the newly opened Lanesborough, which is just down the road. It's not as big as other establishments in the area, but that's what I like about it. It's a family-run business and that means a lot to us. Family businesses really care about what they do and it shows. The collaboration has been good fun so far.
This has been the first time we've overseen the entire food production of a hotel. In a restaurant, you have a lunch and dinner service whereas in a hotel, you have guests to cater for 24 hours a day, and an all-night menu. It's a hell of a lot of pressure on kitchen staff, but we have years of experience to draw on – my career has been 50-50 hotels and restaurants and Jeff has worked at The Savoy and several country-house hotels.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
We always say we're season-led and market-driven. To decide what we're going to cook, we consider the season first, then the ingredients. There's plenty of fish on the menu at Galvin at The Athenaeum – mullet, crab, lobster – and sea vegetables, as well as regional produce, of course. It's essential to support small farms and help them grow if we want to keep local specialities alive.
The Galvin brothers are a bit like a pair of brogues, I think: we're never in fashion, but never out, neither. Nothing we cook is themed or gimmicky: it's just about using the best possible ingredients. We're becoming much more democratic about food. I grew up in an age where chefs said no to everything, but it's evolved. Now, you give the customer what they want – and why wouldn't you?
CHRIS GALVIN and his brother, Jeff, are both Michelin-starred chefs. In their latest venture, Galvin at The Athenaeum, they have stepped away from their trademark French-inspired menus in favour of championing home-grown produce; athenaeumhotel.com/restaurant-bar/galvin-at-the-athenaeum/
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Can AI tools be used to Hollywood's advantage?
Talking Points It makes some aspects of the industry faster and cheaper. It will also put many people in the entertainment world out of work
By Anya Jaremko-Greenwold, The Week US Published
-
'Paraguay has found itself in a key position'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Meet Youngmi Mayer, the renegade comedian whose frank new memoir is a blitzkrieg to the genre
The Week Recommends 'I'm Laughing Because I'm Crying' details a biracial life on the margins, with humor as salving grace
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
Why a Michelin star can spell danger for restaurants
In the Spotlight Winning chefs face heightened financial pressures, changing customer demands and professional limitations
By Harriet Marsden, The Week UK Published
-
8 award-winning restaurants to visit this fall
The Week Recommends It's the season for dropping magazine restaurant and chef awards
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
A foodie guide to Seattle
The Week Recommends From bustling markets to burger joints, these are the best spots in the city
By Neil Davey Published
-
A foodie guide to St Andrews
The Week Recommends The Scottish seaside town has it all, from cheese toastie shacks to Michelin-starred restaurants
By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK Published
-
Tipping point: is the end of the service charge near?
Talking Point Diners on both sides of the Atlantic are increasingly withholding tips
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
The UK's most authentic farm-to-table restaurants
The Week Recommends These eco-friendly eateries are showcasing the country’s best ingredients
By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK Published
-
8 standout restaurants worth visiting this summer
The Week Recommends Cafés upending norms, a rooftop with natural wine and Sicilian eats and a Pacific Northwest bistro
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
A foodie guide to Bilbao
The Week Recommends Go bar-hopping for tasty morsels or splash out on a Michelin-starred meal in the Basque city
By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK Published