Chanel's special effects studio: Maison Lesage

The Chanel-owned institution of handwork and fine stitchery

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I first meet Hubert Barrère, the charismatic artistic director of Maison Lesage, in Venice at a special exhibition space that is best described as a Chanel planetarium: a dimly lit room where spotlights shine on spectacular swatches of embroidery that sparkle like mini meteor showers frozen in time. Each embroidery sample – a snippet of a Chanel couture dress – is framed behind a square of white card and presented as a finished oeuvre; like luminescent paintings comprised of sequins, beads, pearls, flecks of gold, silken thread, raffia and much more besides.

The effect is quite mesmerising, and Barrère, who has never seen his designs and the workmanship of his team presented in such a way, is quite taken aback by the twinkling display. “It’s like seeing something completely new,” says the designer. “I know these patterns – I devised them – but like this, well, it’s like entering into a magical universe.”

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