Recipe of the week: Oven-steamed mussels

Mussels make a quick, easy meal; they even come with a “briny-sweet, built-in broth,” said Cook’s Illustrated. But anyone who’s cooked them in serious quantities in a stovetop pot will have noticed that they exhibit a “stubborn refusal to cook at the same rate.” We now solve that problem by steaming them in the oven in a large roasting pan covered with foil. Given more even heating, almost every one opens, and those that do turn out uniformly moist and plump.

Oven-steamed mussels

• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• pinch of red pepper flakes
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 lbs mussels, scrubbed and debearded
• ¼ tsp salt
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 2 tbsp minced fresh parsley

Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. On stovetop, heat oil, garlic, and pepper flakes over medium heat in a large roasting pan; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add wine, thyme, and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Cook until wine is slightly reduced, about 1 minute.

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Add mussels and salt, cover pan tightly with aluminum foil, and transfer to oven. Cook until most mussels have opened (a few may remain closed), 15 to 18 minutes.

Remove pan from oven. Push mussels to sides of pan. Add butter to center and whisk until melted. Discard bay leaves, sprinkle parsley over mussels, and toss to combine. Serves 2 to 4.