Gigondas: Powerfully likable

Sommeliers regularly tout Gigondas as a worthy alternative to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. That’s “mostly wishful thinking,” since the more exalted wine exhibits a “grandeur” that its close relative rarely matches. But Gigondas has much more going for it than likewise being a blend dominated by Grenache grapes grown in the southern Rhône. Its best makers produce “extremely likable” wines.

2008 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas ($28). A “ravishing” Gigondas. Its “great wash of plummy, berry fruit” is “anchored by an earthy, almost gravelly foundation.”

2009 Notre Dame des Pallières Gigondas ‘Les Mourres’ ($25). A “richly fruity” but particularly well-balanced Gigondas.

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2007 Domaine de Font-Sane Gigon­das Tradition ($21). A great value, this “big, brawny” wine offers “savory flavors of fruit and earth.”