Bethesda: Not bad for the suburbs

There was a time when the most notable part of the food scene in downtown Bethesda, Md., was a long-standing farmers market, said Cynthia Hacinli in Washingtonian. But Metro access transformed the town center of this affluent Washington, D.C., suburb, and the dining scene is “constantly improving.” While new restaurants seem to open every month these days, here are a few established places that we consider gems.

Jaleo The Bethesda edition of the tapas restaurant that made chef José Andrés a D.C.-area star is 10 years old, but the “sprawling sidewalk café” remains the town’s best spot for people watching. Now a James Beard Award winner, Andrés still nods to tradition with Ibérico ham from acorn-fed pigs; his own creations include a “perfect fried organic egg” with sea urchin, diced pepper, tomato, and cucumber. 7271 Woodmont Ave., (301) 913-0003

Faryab The “gentle twang of Afghan music” sets the mood at this “intimate and cozy” restaurant where the menu’s stars include “addictive” mantu and aushak—ravioli-like squares filled with meat or scallion, respectively. 4917 Cordell Ave., (301) 951-3484

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Persimmon Chef Damian Salvatore “revels in robust plates” that include pecan-crusted lamb chops with a horseradish demi-glace, a bouillabaisse with saffron-and-red-pepper aioli, and mini lobster rolls that are “some of the best around.” Thursdays are just as “jammed” as Fridays in the “romantic dining room” thanks to half-price wine bottles from an award-winning wine list. 7003 Wisconsin Ave., (301) 654-9860