‘The best roast-beef sandwich on earth’

Roast-beef sandwich cults can be found all over the country, said Jane and Michael Stern in Gourmet. Chicagoans are devoted to the city’s Italian beef, Philadelphia swoons over its cheesesteak, and other rivals to the claim of “best roast-beef sandwich on earth” include the brisket on rye served at Jewish delis in New York and Southern California’s French dip. “But best of all is the roast-beef po’boy.”

This Louisiana-style roast-beef ­sandwich may not get the attention that the muffuletta or oyster loaf do, but it does offer one of the best ­sandwich-eating experiences you can ever hope to have. Tracking down a good one is part of the adventure. Here are two particularly noteworthy temples of the po’boy cult.

Parasol’s Restaurant & Bar This corner bar “looks like the dive to end all dives.” But don’t be put off by the spilled-beer aroma and motley crowd. A “tidal wave of supple beef tatters” soaked in gravy—plus dressings such as lettuce, tomato, and pickle chips—overflows a loaf of French bread. 2533 Constance St., New Orleans, (504) 897-5413

Parkway Bakery & Tavern “Even sloppier” is this hand-pulled masterpiece that comes wrapped in butcher paper. Hard to say “where the meat ends and the gravy begins.” 538 Hagan Ave., New Orleans, (504) 482-3047