Trattoria Brutto review: modest Italian food and an amazing atmosphere
You’ll be happy you visited this Florentine restaurant long before your first forkful
There are few areas in the entire of the UK that betray the type of restaurant they house more than Farringdon. Home of the historic Smithfield Meat Market, you can expect food here to share a common theme: a focus on meat and butchery, and a consequential machismo – you’re unlikely to find many veloutés, foams or edible flowers in this corner of London.
The most famous illustration of this ethos is the original St. John, perhaps London’s most famous restaurant, where Fergus Henderson revised the way British cuisine is viewed worldwide thanks to his focus on nose-to-tail cooking. (If you ever see bone marrow on a menu, Henderson is the one you should thank). More recently, this reputation has been amplified by restaurants such as Quality Chop House and the newly reopened Bouchon Racine, which sits above The Three Compasses pub.
Adding an Italian spin to this side of London is Trattoria Brutto (shortened often to simply “Brutto”), which sits neatly on a side street between Farringdon Station and Smithfield Market. On the restaurant’s Instagram account, it declares that it is “not fancy” and “don’t expect too much”, a dose of modesty akin to calling itself Brutto (“ugly”) in the first place.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
However, given that this is an outfit by renowned restaurateur Russell Norman, whose credits include elegant seafood restaurant Scott’s and Venetian mini-chain Polpo, expectations are high. It doesn’t help that Brutto was last year awarded a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand and featured in the 50 Best Discovery list.
It makes a very good first impression. Firstly, while bookings are only made available a couple of weeks in advance, they are at least made available, which is more than can be said for Norman’s previous endeavours; Polpo was famous for triggering a wave of no-reservations restaurants in London, a trend that was only really halted by the pandemic.
Interiors and drinks
When you arrive, the atmosphere is truly perfect: dimly lit, with candlelight dancing on white tablecloths and a loud, boisterous, but intimate atmosphere. As a table of five, we’re shown to a round table, which, though a simple pleasure, is rarer than you think in a world of tables for two pushed together.
Our spirits are lifted even higher when we clock the £5 negronis on the menu (cheaper than most pints in London), which disappear embarrassingly quickly while we peruse the food options. We also order wine for the table – bottles can get expensive, but there’s a £15 house red served in carafes. No one’s waxing lyrical about tasting notes, but we leave slightly drunk, which is always a good sign.
The food
Unusually for an Italian restaurant, the highlight of the meal is the starter: toasts piled high with chicken livers; sourdough from St. John bakery with cold, toothy butter, draped with anchovies; slices of aged pecorino and sweet, blushing Decana pear, two ingredients so good that they need only slicing and plating.
The standout, though, are the signature dough ball “cuddles”, sweet, crispy little things which are best described as something adjacent to doughnuts, accompanied with prosciutto and creamy stracchino cheese.
The pasta, while delicious, hit a bit more of a sedate note after the chorus of starters: tortellini in brodo, a northern Italian classic that is surprisingly rare on London menus, meets expectations without exceeding them, and the same goes for a rabbit pappardelle and a pork ragu. There’s nothing to complain about per se, but they lack the vivacity of the first course.
The desserts are unfussy but brilliant – a properly boozy affogato, with the traditional coffee plus a shot of what we think is brandy, and a homely helping of tiramisu. We ask for the bill reluctantly, having had three courses, wine and cocktails, but leave pleasantly surprised having spent only around £50 per head.
The verdict
Though delicious, the menu is not the reason to visit this Florentine trattoria. The reason is its convivial atmosphere, friendly staff, cheap cocktails and food that makes you happy. It’s a neighbourhood spot in the middle of the city, adhering to Farringdon’s tradition of meat-centric restaurants while ensuring it adds something new.
Trattoria Brutto, 35-37 Greenhill Rents, London EC1M 6BN; brutto.co.uk
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Mary Poppins tour: 'humdinger' of a show kicks off at Bristol Hippodrome
The Week Recommends Stefanie Jones and Jack Chambers are 'true triple threats' as Mary and Bert in 'timeless' production
By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK Published
-
Jaguar's stalled rebrand
In the spotlight Critics and car lovers are baffled by the luxury car company's 'complete reset'
By Abby Wilson Published
-
What the chancellor's pension megafund plans mean for your money
Rachel Reeves wants pension schemes to merge and back UK infrastructure – but is it putting your money at risk?
By Marc Shoffman, The Week UK Published
-
Raise your glass at these 7 hotel bars where the vibe is as important as the drinking
The Week Recommends Have a pisco sour in Peru and a Bellini in Rome. Or maybe run into Bruno Mars in Vegas.
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Love design? These hotels are ready to startle your eyes and drop your jaw.
The Week Recommends A treasure trove of curios and resplendent decor await
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
How London fell back in love with the brasserie
The Blend From Brasserie Zédel to Café François, we sample the best bistros in town
By Charlie Teasdale Published
-
Why a Michelin star can spell danger for restaurants
In the Spotlight Winning chefs face heightened financial pressures, changing customer demands and professional limitations
By Harriet Marsden, The Week UK Published
-
8 award-winning restaurants to visit this fall
The Week Recommends It's the season for dropping magazine restaurant and chef awards
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
A foodie guide to Seattle
The Week Recommends From bustling markets to burger joints, these are the best spots in the city
By Neil Davey Published
-
6 immersive experiences that bend reality
The Week Recommends Take a journey into the fantastic
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
A foodie guide to St Andrews
The Week Recommends The Scottish seaside town has it all, from cheese toastie shacks to Michelin-starred restaurants
By Irenie Forshaw, The Week UK Published