Osteria del Macellaio review: ‘nose-to-tail’ carnivorous Italian dining
The concept may take some convincing, but the roster of Italian classics are delicious nonetheless

Osteria del Macellaio is the sixth outpost of the Macellaio RC brand, and while each claims to have a unique identity – in the same vein as other London names – that still means the restaurant is flirting around the edges of becoming a fully-fledged chain.
There are hints at this as you walk into the relaunched restaurant on Union Street in Southwark, London. There’s a sort of uniformity that you only get from larger brands, with signs and posters that could slot neatly into any restaurant environment. Nonetheless, there is character, with the rumblings of Thameslink trains going overhead, and a nightmarish, neon sacrificial altar at the back of the restaurant resembling something from a Francis Bacon painting.
Dining on a Wednesday evening, we were one of only two tables there, which in a restaurant of this size is a bit of a problem. There’s an upstairs area that’s completely deserted, and with its high ceilings, long tables and neon lights, this is definitely a space that’s designed to be full of conversations, clashing elbows and clinking glasses of wine.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The “Mad Max”-esque alter on the back wall is presumably some sort of tribute to beef, which is what Macellaio is famous for. The other five of its outposts are fully-fledged steakhouses, complete with gigantic glass cabinets full of ageing meat and the same slightly offbeat interior design as the new location on Union Street.
The ‘nose-to-tail’ concept
The newest addition to the roster is a slightly different proposal, with plenty of modern-day considerations. Firstly, it’s attempting to be as sustainable as it’s possible for a steakhouse to be, which is admittedly not very sustainable. After all, eating beef is an emotionally fulfilling, but environmentally naughty habit.
However, Osteria del Macellaio is doing what it can, claiming to put often less-desired cuts of beef at its heart. It’s a noble mission, but I can’t help thinking that someone got cold feet on the way to executing it. One would imagine that they’re shifting more of the crowd-pleasing Irish tomahawks and Finnish T-bones than they are the tripe and tongue. As a general rule, if you let people choose between T-bone and tripe, they’ll opt for the T-bone.
The pricing
The second difference between this outpost and the others in Macellaio’s inventory is the price. While the restaurants in Fitzrovia, Soho, South Kensington, Exmouth Market and Battersea are all reasonably-priced considering the type of restaurant they are, and the quality of the meat they serve, you’re unlikely to get too much change from £200 if you go as a pair and do it properly.
The Osteria, meanwhile, has a long list of £10 dishes, and you can choose any three for £29. It’s a straightforward way of pricing, if not a slightly curious one. The method means that a portion of lard on toast or arancini costs the same as a beef escalope or chicken Milanese. Nevertheless, it’s a charming way of eating, and you could quite easily feed two people with drinks for less than £50 a head.
If you do fancy splashing out, though, there are the aforementioned sharing steaks, which are still well priced for the portions you get. The 800g Irish tomahawk will set you back £70, while the Finnish T-Bone is £7 per 100g.
The dishes and drinks
The food, similarly to Macellaio’s other branches, is faultless. The arancini cacio e pepe, which could so easily be a dense chore of an appetiser (as arancini often is), is instead a moreish and surprisingly light bite. Beef tonnato, meanwhile, is a lovely entrance into the bovine part of the meal, with that weird-but-wonderful combination of beef and tuna sauce.
However, steak remains the main event, and Macellaio is well aware of this. They’re served theatrically and proudly, and rightly so. They’re as good as any steak I’ve had in recent memory, although a more salt-averse diner than me might find the one we had a touch too much.
There’s also a small selection of desserts. Predictably, we go for the tiramisu, as I wager 90% of customers do. I’d also wager that 100% don’t regret it – it’s as classically satisfying as everything else on the menu.
Drinks include a decent wine list, unsurprisingly full of steak-complimenting deep Italian reds, and there’s also a memorable dessert wine to round things off.
The verdict
We strolled back to the station feeling satiated in a way that only Italian food seems able to. It’s true that Osteria del Macellaio probably isn’t breaking as much new ground as it claims to be. However, it’s also true that a restaurant like this, with its greatest hits menu of well-executed Italian classics, is never likely to disappoint.
Kieran Ahuja was a guest of Osteria del Macellaio. Arch 24, 229 Union Street, London SE1 0LR; macellaiorc.com
Sign up for The Week’s Food & Drink newsletter for recipes, reviews and recommendations.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Why are student loan borrowers falling behind on payments?
Today's Big Question Delinquencies surge as the Trump administration upends the program
By Joel Mathis, The Week US Published
-
Not there yet: The frustrations of the pocket AI
Feature Apple rushes to roll out its ‘Apple Intelligence’ features but fails to deliver on promises
By The Week US Published
-
George Foreman: The boxing champ who reinvented home grills
Feature He helped define boxing’s golden era
By The Week US Published
-
These 8 restaurants bring spring to your table
The Week Recommends An array of cuisines at noteworthy restaurants across the US
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
Critics’ choice: Fine dining worth stepping up to
Feature Celebrity chefs share a kitchen, a ‘spa-like’ lounge, and more
By The Week US Published
-
Why do so few female chefs have Michelin stars?
In The Spotlight Sexism, harassment and work-life balance blamed as only one female chef is honoured in this year's UK awards
By Elizabeth Carr-Ellis, The Week UK Published
-
Clink glasses and gawk at gorgeous views at these 7 rooftop bars
The Week Recommends Elevate your typical night out
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
How caviar went mainstream
The Week Recommends From elite delicacy to viral trend, fish eggs are becoming more accessible
By The Week UK Published
-
Decrepit train stations across the US are being revitalized
Under the Radar These buildings function as hotels, restaurants and even museums
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
7 restaurants that beat winter at its own chilly game
The Week Recommends Classic, new and certain to feed you well
By Scott Hocker, The Week US Published
-
How London fell back in love with the brasserie
The Blend From Brasserie Zédel to Café François, we sample the best bistros in town
By Charlie Teasdale Published