Rosewood Phuket review: super-sustainable luxury on Thailand’s largest island
This hotel in southern Phuket is a temple of tranquillity
A pleasant hour’s drive from tropical Phuket airport brings you to the Rosewood hotel, brushing right up against the Andaman Sea on Thailand’s west coast. If you’ve travelled from the always-on bustle of Bangkok, you’ll feel the atmosphere change, the pace of life slow-down and the landscape shift from concrete greys to a thousand shades of green on this, the country’s largest island.
It’s still Thailand though and thus the soundtrack is a chorus of insects, squawks of birds and the toots and honks of the omnipresent scooters. Head towards the peninsula, however, and the sounds drop away, leaving nothing but the lapping of waves and the wind moving through the gently swaying palms.
Why stay here?
Behind a set of truly gargantuan, imposing doors, the Rosewood Phuket immediately establishes itself as a temple of tranquillity; it’s a deeply intimate hotel built in a blend of traditional and modern styles, village-like, incorporating elements of traditional Thai design – where the only other guests you might come across will be at breakfast or its fabulous restaurant, Ta Khai. It’s a masterclass in understated opulence, being the most expensive resort in Thailand ever constructed; around half of the budget was dedicated creating a sustainable infrastructure – rainwater retention ponds, the largest solar renewable energy system on the island and rooftops carpeted in plants, cooling rooms to conserve energy.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Staff are gentle, kind, welcoming and interested – our buggy driver, learning of our interest in the local flora and fauna, took great joy in sharing his findings with us (if you’re lucky, you might see one of the shy lizards running round the grounds).
The hotel is built into a steep hill running down to the ocean – small pools dotted with sun loungers lead up to a low hedge; head through one of the gates to a perfect crescent of sand and turquoise seas fringed with picture-perfect palms; it’s almost a cliché. Emerald Beach is 600 metres long and sees few tourists – you’ll have it just about to yourself.
Rooms and suites
The Rosewood Phuket features 70 villas. Ours had uninterrupted views of the Andaman Sea and felt utterly private; they are accessed via buggies – always on hand within a couple of minutes to take you to the pool or one of the hotel’s restaurants. Narrow trails snake around the complex with larger-than-life, prehistoric greenery slowly creeping in, trying to take back the land.
There are more sizable accommodations with direct access to the beach – two-bedroom villas with infinity pools, ours was the perfect size for two, with a temperate pool providing respite from the notorious Thai humidity. In the same vein, an outdoor waterfall shower and bath provided a bit of the outside in and the inside out.
Minibars are well-stocked and pre-batched cocktails are made with care. Delicious sweet things were dropped daily to our room – a little post-sunbathing pick-me-up like passionfruit and chocolate truffles or canele, a delicious pastry from Bordeaux.
Eating and drinking
Ta Khai is the hotel’s Michelin-recommended flagship restaurant. The food here is exceptional, Thai cuisine which isn’t pulling any punches with good levels of spicing and the funk of “gapi” (fermented shrimp paste) playing significant roles. There’s a degustation menu for those wanting to try a little of everything featuring plenty of regional food from the island – Yum Pak Kood Goong Sod, for example – a hot and sour salad of fiddlehead ferns, minced pork, prawns and shallots with chilli and lime dressing. The restaurant partners with sustainable producers for all of its meat, fish and rice.
Red Sauce is the hotel’s Italian offering where breakfast is also served – it’s a lovely tiled spot sitting at the top of the grounds. Inspired juices, detox options and deluxe options are all available and someone in the kitchen is a dab hand with the pastries for a morning treat.
Phongskorn Ruanjan heads up the bar, Mai, poolside at the Rosewood. It’s a sleek, refined and subtle affair. Phongskorn is an award-winning mixologist and his love of the craft shines through with plenty of house-made ferments, shrubs and infusions to excite your palate.
If you want to try some local Phuketian food, head out to a spot called Kaab Gluay. It’s no frills and for the most part devilishly hot, but they have some milder options. Other recommendations are a bit further afield – Mor Mu Dong and Nam Yoi are doing the rounds on the foodie scene, both around a 30-minute drive from the hotel.
What to do
Primarily, not a lot. The Rosewood Phuket is a temple of zen and the ultimate in tropical escapes with its fantastic beach, great pools, an astonishingly good spa and exquisite food. For those not wanting to lounge around getting a tan, there are plenty of fitness activities, a beach boot camp and water sports like kayaking and paddle-boarding.
Paradise beach, just up from the hotel, was closed at the time of writing due to a film shoot but should reopen soon. It’s got brilliant views out over the bay – and probably about as far afield as one might venture.
Room rates at the Rosewood Phuket start from £500 per night; rosewoodhotels.com
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
5 spine-chilling horror video games to play this Halloween
The Week Recommends A nostalgic classic remastered and a couple of scary co-ops you can play with brave friends
By Theara Coleman, The Week US Published
-
Climate safe havens may be a thing of the past
Under the radar Safe spaces are few and far between
By Devika Rao, The Week US Published
-
The week's best photos
In Pictures A school of tadpoles, a human tower, and more
By Anahi Valenzuela, The Week US Published
-
Take advantage of sublime October weather at these 7 hotels
The Week Recommends Rain, snow and sleet will absolutely not be keeping you from your destination
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Engel Ayurpura: a boutique Ayurveda retreat in the Dolomites
The Week Recommends The tranquil Italian hideaway offers an array of specially tailored wellness programmes
By Ann Lee Published
-
6 bustling outdoor markets ripe for exploration
The Week Recommends These lively markets offer shopping with a side of culture
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
What are digital nomads?
The Explainer Dozens of countries now offer remote working visas but the schemes vary and there are downsides too
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
Isles of Scilly: discover the abundant joys of island life
The Week Recommends Ramble, sail and feast your way around Scilly to experience a region like no other
By Julia O'Driscoll, The Week UK Published
-
Raffles London at The OWO review: a quintessentially British stay
The Week Recommends This heritage building has been given a twist as a luxury hotel in the nation's capital
By Leaf Arbuthnot, The Week UK Published
-
Royal Hideaway Corales Beach, Tenerife: sleek hotel offering culinary adventure
The Week Recommends Discover the island's volcanic beauty and black sands from this adults-only hideaway
By William Leigh Published
-
Lanzarote travel guide: a sea-swept volcanic paradise
The Week Recommends Even a short exploration quickly shows the out-of-this-world island is undeserving of its 'Brits abroad' reputation
By William Leigh Published