Tenuta di Artimino review: a Tuscan retreat fit for a Medici
Situated on an Italian estate, this Meliá Collection Hotel has a unique history
It’d be hard to visit Tuscany and not bump into some legacy of the Medici family along the way, but few are lucky enough to take up temporary residency in one of the dynasty’s former properties.
Tenuta di Artimino offers visitors just that opportunity. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the nearby Artimino village, Villa La Ferdinanda is situated in the middle of the estate’s grounds with views over the olive groves and vineyards that characterise the Tuscan landscape. The former hunting lodge was built as a countryside getaway from the bustle of Florence – just 20km away – for Ferdinando I de Medici, in 1596.
A hotel has existed in the former stable and servants’ quarters of the Villa for some time, but earlier this year it became part of Meliá Collections’ rapidly expanding group – one which champions “an independent spirit and unmistakable sense of place”. It would be hard to question that ethos when one arrives at Tenuta di Artimino.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Why stay here?
A short drive from Florence brings guests to Villa La Ferdinanda’s tree-lined driveway. Situated within a Unesco World Heritage site, the hotel is tucked to the side and just in front of the former hunting lodge, but behind typical Italian gardens, to provide privacy and unspoilt views for guests.
If the scene wasn’t quite set by this point, the colonnade walkways lining the periphery of the two-floor hotel and impressive arched doorways that grace the entrance to each room will confirm that Tenuta di Artimino is somewhere quite remarkable. The building’s original features take centre stage, with wooden-beamed ceilings and huge stone fireplaces masterfully complemented by comfortable furnishings, beds worthy of Tuscan nobility and spacious modern bathrooms.
The hotel’s remoteness may not inspire digital nomads, but some will be very grateful for that. With little but birdsong to disturb one’s day, guests can truly unwind and unplug from modern life. Many of the team at the hotel have also worked there for a number of years, giving the entire enterprise a very welcoming atmosphere.
Eating and drinking
Many non-natives are pretty confident in their knowledge of Italian cuisine – but guests are likely to learn something new under the guidance of executive chef Michela Bottasso. Little did I know, for instance, that onion soup was in fact not a creation of the French, and that it was, in fact, transported to France by Catherine de Medici in the 16th-century. So too was the classic culinary combination of duck and orange, a dish originating in the Florence court before it found new fans in King Henry II’s France.
A French guest may choose to contest the Italian roots of those particular dishes, but after several plates of Bottasso’s food, they would be ill-advised to upset this chef. Using locally-sourced ingredients, Biagio Pignatta’s kitchen serves recipes inspired by tradition. Here, simplicity does not correlate to an unexciting or unambitious menu – it instead lets the recipes speak boldly for themselves.
Guests can go for the typical options of primi, secondi and dolci at the hotel restaurant, but I’d recommend opting for the “Gourmet Experience” – three courses and wine pairings followed by dessert wine and almond biscuits, a local delicacy.
What to do
If you can, be sure to book on to a guided tour of the former Medici residence and jewel of Tenuta di Artimino, Villa La Ferdinanda itself. It’s filled with unexpected splendours – including an original rotisserie device installed in the kitchen by none other than Leonardo da Vinci. As a private residence, tours need to be organised well in advance – or visitors can look out for open days. The Villa can also be booked for private events and weddings.
The hotel pool is a secluded spot to enjoy the Tuscan sunshine in the warmer months – although the staff have been known to open it on occasion in winter too, at the request of slightly braver swimmers. For those looking to explore the vineyard, there are options to book a visit to the estate’s winery, arrange a tasting with a sommelier or enjoy a picnic among the vines.
Anyone looking to take their culinary re-education to the next level can also book a cooking course at the hotel to finesse the more technical skills involved in preparing the nation’s best-loved staples. Otherwise, Artimino village is a short walk from the estate and has several small eateries, a gelato stop, and an Etruscan museum for those looking to dive even further into the region’s history.
The next chapter
As this hotel’s global network grows through its Meliá membership, so too does its local footprint. In the local village, Il Borgo will open soon – a new complex with dozens more rooms and suites for guests to stay, including a pool, outdoor terraces and more of the luxurious accommodation that Villa La Ferdinanda’s closest neighbours enjoy.
Rooms start from £250 a night; melia.com
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Julia O'Driscoll is the engagement editor. She covers UK and world news, as well as writing lifestyle and travel features. She regularly appears on “The Week Unwrapped” podcast, and hosted The Week's short-form documentary podcast, “The Overview”. Julia was previously the content and social media editor at sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, where she interviewed prominent voices in sustainable fashion and climate movements. She has a master's in liberal arts from Bristol University, and spent a year studying at Charles University in Prague.
-
The mental health crisis affecting vets
Under The Radar Death of Hampshire vet highlights mental health issues plaguing the industry
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
The Onion is having a very ironic laugh with Infowars
The Explainer The satirical newspaper is purchasing the controversial website out of bankruptcy
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
'Rahmbo, back from Japan, will be looking for a job? Really?'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Raise your glass at these 7 hotel bars where the vibe is as important as the drinking
The Week Recommends Have a pisco sour in Peru and a Bellini in Rome. Or maybe run into Bruno Mars in Vegas.
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
The Biltmore Mayfair review: a quintessential slice of luxury London
The Week Recommends This swanky retreat in Grosvenor Square blends old-world glamour with modern comforts
By Caroline Dolby Published
-
Langdale Chase Hotel: a cosy nook in the Lake District
The Week Recommends This Victorian villa has breathtaking views and expansive gardens
By Natasha Langan Published
-
Ramdane Touhami's Hotel Drei Berge
The Blend A passion project in the Swiss mountains sees creative visionary Ramdane Touhami achieving new heights
By Delilah Khomo Published
-
Timeless hotels for old-school elegance
The Blend From Jamaica to Rome, we check into incredibly atmospheric landmarks
By Delilah Khomo Published
-
Hoteliers who host
The Blend Sublime design gets personal at these luxury properties with personality
By Delilah Khomo Published
-
Engel Ayurpura: a boutique Ayurveda retreat in the Dolomites
The Week Recommends The tranquil Italian hideaway offers an array of specially tailored wellness programmes
By Ann Lee Published
-
Trentino: Italy's charming and lesser-known northern region
The Week Recommends This cultural meeting point has a distinctive character and stunning lake-and-mountain landscapes
By Vicki Power Published