There is no place like San Francisco: a travel guide

With its cable cars, steep streets, summer fog and spectacular views, San Francisco attracts visitors from around the world looking for an urban adventure. Diversity thrives in this vibrant city — just look at its population and culinary scene. It is also a place that is constantly evolving, embracing its history as it looks to the future.

Exploring all sides of San Francisco

Officially, San Francisco has 36 neighborhoods, including Chinatown (the oldest Chinese community in the United States), The Castro (home to many LGBTQ landmarks) and Haight-Ashbury (the birthplace of hippie culture). You can explore the areas that interest you by foot, public transport or bicycle (there are rental places across the city), taking the time to check out the public art and murals and stop at one-of-a-kind shops and cafés.

There is another option: sightseeing by boat. Glide by many of San Francisco's most beloved landmarks on a Red and White Fleet Golden Gate Bay Cruise. During this hour-long narrated sailing, you'll pass under the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and by Alcatraz, a former prison that once housed such infamous names as Al Capone and George "Machine Gun" Kelly.

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For a taste of the Bay Area, visit the San Francisco Ferry Building, which dates back to 1898 and is now the home of the Ferry Building Marketplace. This is "once again the hottest place to open a restaurant," The San Francisco Standard said, with Lunette, a Cambodian spot, and Filipino fusion go-to Señor Sisig among the new openings inside this public food market. There are also outposts of regional favorites like Acme Bread and Gott's Roadside, and local farmers selling their fresh produce outside several times a week. Edible Excursions offers a two-hour tour of the market, with a knowledgeable guide leading participants from merchant to merchant, procuring samples of their specialities — fun, informative and delicious.

San Francisco has an abundance of open space, and not just in one area. In the Mission, "long known as the beating heart of the city's Latinx scene," Mission Dolores Park is its "living room," the BBC said, with prime people watching and picnic opportunities. The 1,491-acre Presidio next to the Golden Gate Bridge is an "urban oasis" with "almost unlimited recreation opportunities," Lonely Planet said. Take a hike, relax on Baker Beach and explore Tunnel Tops, a "lush 14-acre park within a park" where visitors can walk wheelchair-accessible pathways through "whimsical gardens."

One beautiful aspect of the city is how many free activities can be done year-round. In the late spring, summer and early fall, Sundown Cinema projects movies on giant screens at different parks, and on a clear day, there is no better place to go than the de Young Museum's 144-foot observation tour with 360-degree views of Golden Gate Park. Admission to Musée Mécanique is also free, but bring plenty of quarters — this private collection of more than 300 antique and modern arcade games and coin-operated mechanical instruments is "one of the most unique museums in San Francisco," Secret San Francisco said. Visitors can play any of the machines, which are all in original working condition.

Sleeping in style

Right on the Embarcadero, 1 Hotel San Francisco "is a testament to sustainability done right," Travel and Leisure said. Locally sourced and repurposed materials are found throughout the hotel — the lobby floor is composed of 7,000 square feet of reclaimed barn wood — and the luxe, well-appointed rooms come with Nespresso machines, in-room greenery and in many cases, sweeping views of the Bay Bridge and Ferry Building. Terrene, the hotel's restaurant, serves California classics with a global spin, its ingredients sourced within 100 miles of San Francisco (mint and other greens are grown on the rooftop chef's garden).

The "playful" Proper San Francisco takes the "maximalist approach to new heights," Vogue said, with "color and patterns articulated on every wall, rug and piece of furniture." Besides its delightful decor and "community-forward hospitality," the highlight of this Mid-Market hotel is Charmaine's, a "stylish" rooftop bar and lounge with fire pits and "unbeatable views."

Eating your way across the bay

Flavor, flavor, flavor. That's the first word that comes to mind after trying the Korean fried chicken (order the full serving — you will want leftovers) and soy marinated beef short ribs at Ilcha, a Korean hot spot on Lombard Street.

Ilcha "specializes in anju, a Korean genre of drinking food," and "makes good on that notion" with a "serious menu of premium soju bottles and other fermented rice liquors," The San Francisco Chronicle said. Every dish is perfectly seasoned, with the tender beef bulgogi starring in two of the menu's standout dishes: the bulgogi tater tots that "ooze with mozzarella and pepper jack cheese" and bulgogi jeongol, a delicious hotpot chock full of meat, vegetables, tofu and textural surprises like rice cakes and japchae.

Collina offers an "intimate Italian experience," Eater San Francisco said, and its "hit" lasagnette, a 48-layer flavor bomb of bolognese, spinach and béchamel, is "miraculously crisp and soft at the same time." Get your Italian seafood fix at Sotto Mare, which rightfully claims to have the "best damned cioppino" in San Francisco. This "rustic seafood stew is so synonymous with the city that it's almost a trope at this point," SFGate said, and Sotto Mare "neither skimps nor skips on the crucial elements," the ceramic bowls "teeming with fresh Dungeness crab, clams, squid, mussels and fish."

Additional comfort can be found in a bowl at Yuanbao Jiaozi, which serves delicious "fragrant beef noodle soup" and the "best" dumplings in the city, The Infatuation said. When in doubt, "get the pork and Napa cabbage" and know that once your first plate is gone "you're going to immediately start pining for another round." Solace also comes wrapped in a tortilla, from Taqueria San Francisco in the Mission District. Mission-style burritos emerged here in the 1960s, "large, foiled-wrap" tortillas that "provide a hearty foundation" for beans, rice and meat, KQED said. The super shrimp burrito at Taqueria San Francisco is great, but do not skip the quesadillas.

For a quick breakfast or lunch, swing by Tartine Bakery and pick up a fresh pastry, like a flaky croissant or morning bun, or a more substantial slice of quiche. It is "routinely rated the best bakery in San Francisco," Condé Nast Traveler said, and "actually lives up to the hype." After 10 a.m., consider ordering one of the hot pressed sandwiches, made to order on Tartine's excellent country loaf bread (the pastrami with gruyère, horseradish and dijon mustard is a winner).