Paso Robles is where you should drink wine in California

At first glance it looked like a jungle, but as he walked around the vast property for the first time in 2017, sixth-generation winemaker Guillaume Fabre had a vision. The dead vines that surrounded him were gone, the overgrowth trimmed and the tasting room filled with visitors eager to sip his newest blend. He was certain after years of searching: His boutique winery, Clos Solène, finally had a home in the rolling hills of Paso Robles, California.

What Fabre could see, his wife Solène could feel. Stepping onto the grounds, she sensed that this was where her family was meant to settle and build their future. "I was at ease," she said. "Right away, it was a feeling of 'This is home.' I could see the potential because of the soul in it."

Two decades ago, Fabre came to Paso Robles for an internship, leaving France and its traditional winemaking methods for California, where vintners can take a more freewheeling approach. He was not the first person — or Frenchman — to fall in love with the promise of Paso Robles, a town halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

Its location facilitates ideal growing conditions. Paso Robles' terroir — the environment where a wine is produced — is "exceptional" due to the "diversity in soils, elevation and rainfall," Wine Folly said. More than 40 different grape varieties flourish, from zinfandel to cabernet sauvignon, grenache to syrah, and there are nearly 300 wineries spread across 11 sub-AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). Each one has distinct weather, topography and climate. In the western hills, for example, the warm days, cool nights and limestone soil help grow robust grapes.

An under-the-radar destination

Paso Robles is not as well-known as its northern neighbors, Napa and Sonoma, which benefits those who crave a quintessential wine country experience without the crowds. Paso Robles is unpretentious, and you can take the time to ask questions at tasting rooms, learn what you like to drink and broaden your palate. Looking at Paso through the lens of a wine critic, it is a "startling blend," the Los Angeles Times said, with "overtones" of "rising ambition" and "widening recognition."

Planting roots

No two wineries in Paso Robles are alike, making the town ripe for exploration. It has long attracted winemakers who are both rooted in tradition and willing to take risks, like L'Aventure's Stephan Asseo. In 1998, after 15 years of making wine in Bordeaux, he wanted more freedom and to create a "fantasy blend" of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot, his daughter, L'Aventure general manager Chloe Asseo-Fabre, said. "The beauty of Paso is there are no rules," she continued, and in his new home, Asseo felt empowered to lean into his creativity. His blend was named Optimus and remains a prized member of the L'Aventure lineup.

Xavier Arnaudin of Union Sacré also came to Paso Robles with a dream. Hailing from France's Alsace region, Arnaudin arrived in town two decades ago and saw "people achieving and creating and building and could see myself doing the same," he said. Taking inspiration from Alsace, a white wine region, he was unfazed when warned that sweeter wines would be a hard sell on the West Coast. "People told me I was crazy, and a project like this would be more challenging," Arnaudin said. "But it's worth the fight." He carved a niche for Union Sacré, and in 2024 celebrated 10 years in Tin City, a hub of 40 artisanal producers.

Spend even a minute chatting with Guillaume Fabre at Clos Solène and it is clear that his passion for all things wine is as strong today as it was when he launched the brand in 2007. His wife jokes that he is one of the few people who look forward to Mondays and getting back to work, and visitors to Clos Solène can attest to this. Come for a tasting and you will see him in the vineyards, taking guests on guided property tours, pouring samples and answering any question about wine that may come his way. Fabre has "endeared" himself to the Paso Robles community, the San Francisco Chronicle said, and with his family "fueled the region's reputation for openness and innovation."

The vision he had for his property is now a reality, with the Fabres spending the last eight years transforming it into an estate that annually produces 3,500 cases of wine. Along with his brother, Arnaud, Fabre started a second winery called Benom, and this is a continuation of his desire to fill as many glasses as possible with exceptional wine. "Making people happy is the dream," he said. "Do what you love, and it makes people happier."

 Take a bite out of Paso Robles

Dining in Paso Robles is an eclectic experience, and In Bloom is a prime example. Offering a "creative take on California cuisine," its diverse menu lets "locally sourced ingredients shine" in "hyper-seasonal dishes," AAA Magazine said. Plates of imaginative dishes arrive artfully presented, like mini wagyu tartare tostadas topped with delicate edible flowers and served on a wooden board. The flavors burst through in other imaginative dishes, including the salad of local braised golden beets, whipped avocado, macerated strawberries and edible soil.

Les Petites Canailles is a "favorite for locals and a destination for wine tourists," Wine Spectator said, offering an "ever-changing, farm-to-table menu that mixes classically French and international influences." Diners cannot go wrong with comfort food like the mushroom "Bolognese" with pappardelle or such eclectic offerings as the Burgundy escargot risotto. For a true culinary adventure, try the five-course "Trust Us" tasting menu.

Tasting rooms often offer bites that are as interesting as their wines. The Michelin-starred Restaurant at Justin uses homegrown ingredients for its elevated farm-to-table multi-course meals and serves similarly well-considered meals in its downtown tasting room. Here, the classic baked brie with local honey and savory mushroom flatbread pair well with a wine tasting or glass of Justin's iconic Isosceles red wine.

More than wine

Wineries are the centerpiece of Paso Robles but not the only attraction. Beer drinkers have more than a dozen breweries to check out, and those who prefer craft spirits can stop by one of the town's 16 distilleries (many are on the Paso Robles Distillery Trail) or take a trip back to the Prohibition era and have a drink at the elegant (no phones allowed) Eleven Twenty Two Speakeasy and Cocktail Lounge. The bartenders assemble old favorites plus their own signature creations — try the butter pecan Old Fashioned, made with Larceny bourbon, house-made butter-pecan syrup, and orange and Angostura bitters, plank-smoked with cinnamon.

For a break from the booze, head downtown. Quaint and easy to walk around, there are bakeries, boutiques and Downtown City Park, a "soothing green rectangle" that throughout the year hosts concerts, car shows and special events, the Los Angeles Times said. Once the sun sets, Sensorio offers an illuminating experience. This immersive art installation involves 100,000 solar-powered glowing bulbs that together create a "magical, otherworldly escape," Secret San Francisco said. Its newest exhibition, "Dimensions," adds texture through large-scale metal sculptures.

A perfect hideaway

Tucked away in the hills of Paso Robles is Farm Blanc et Rouge, a charming boutique bed and breakfast where the toughest part of your day is deciding whether you want to open up a bottle of white or red wine to sip in the patio's rocking chairs.

Guests stay in spacious mini-farmhouses complete with living rooms, full kitchens and laundry rooms, or the vintage Barn, which offers more of a glamping experience. All are well-stocked, with snacks, pantry items, board games, blankets and even hats if you left yours at home. Farm Blanc et Rouge sits on a peaceful 42 acres, with guests encouraged to walk the trails, warm themselves by the fire pit and visit Chez Poulet, the adorable chicken coop.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of The James Collective