The Dolder Grand, Zürich review: magical views and Michelin star food
This Disney-esque Swiss castle is a swish mix of old-school glamour and modern design
Guests who stay at The Dolder Grand really are kings and queens of the castle. This sprawling and swish hotel, nestled in nature and just minutes from Zürich’s charming centre, is the only five-star in the city to have a spa. And the outside Jacuzzis, overlooking a floor of natural rugged forest beneath, take some beating.
The culinary wizardry throughout the hotel’s dining options are overseen by two-Michelin-starred chef Heiko Nieder – so foodies will be floored. The hotel is also unique in that it is the only one in Zürich to have city, lake and mountain views. When you venture outside, you can take a stroll on the waymarked forest path where sculptures from the art-loving owner proudly sit.
A perfect place for a romantic getaway or glitzy family holiday, The Dolder Grand is a destination within itself.
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
Join more than 350,000 subscribers and keep yourself informed with a selection of The Week’s most interesting, enlightening and entertaining stories - plus daily puzzles.
Join more than 350,000 subscribers and keep yourself informed with a selection of The Week’s most interesting, enlightening and entertaining stories - plus daily puzzles.
Why stay here
The hotel design is undoubtedly opulent, from the real gold leaf-clad walls in its fine dining restaurant, to the grand sweeping staircase leading to the rooms from the reception. The eclectic art pieces on show are from the owner’s private collection. All the pieces have a tale to tell, which you can read about by borrowing an iPad from reception which guides you on a digital art tour of the hotel.
The breakfast restaurant is clean lined and modern, with comfortable sofa seating and pops of colour. I really loved the Dolder postcards that guests can take – a revolving fixture with a pick of cards depicting various shots of the hotel. Natural materials are used throughout, for example wood and stone. The exterior is a mix of Swiss old-school glamour with the Disney-esque castle-like spires juxtaposed with the modern day floor-to-ceiling windows and contemporary curved tiled spa wing.
The rooms
I stayed in a double room deluxe and on arrival I was immediately drawn to the balcony, which had chairs and a table that begged to be used while sipping a freshly brewed coffee. Sat enjoying chocolates, an incredible chocolate berry tart and macaroons left as a welcome treat, I looked out to the ethereal forest, lake and mountains. It was absolutely beautiful.
The room itself was neutral in tone. Soft beige walls and upholstered chairs married with a rich brown wooden floor, cream lampshades and golden small round table which had a pop of colour from a pot plant. The red scatter cushions, centrepiece terracotta and gold silky pattered headboard blended in well.
A free daily email with the day’s biggest news and analysis – and the best features from TheWeek.com
The grey and white marble tiled bathroom had a power shower and a large bath. There was even a screen so you could lay back and watch your favourite film. The toiletries are made by luxury brand Dr Burgener Switzerland – the same line is also found in the spa changing rooms.
Eating and drinking
There is the all-day dining Saltz Restaurant where breakfast is also served. The menu revolves around regional ingredients and specialities and the huge breakfast offering was one of the best I’ve had. Mini plates of steak tartare; cured tuna steak with wasabi sauce; chia pots topped with fresh mango and micro basil; a plethora of delicious pastries including local pretzel buns; hot buffet including Swiss rösti; fruit salads; and a menu serving specialities such as the incredible “Onsen Egg”, a slow cooked egg with sea trout roe.
There are four pop-up restaurants throughout the year and a bar for cocktails and cake, but the pièce de résistance has to be the hotel’s two-Michelin starred The Restaurant, which is headed by acclaimed chef Nieder.
We went for the eight-course taster menu and wine pairing – and with virtually every course we said “this is our favourite”. All the courses stood out, from the “compliments from the chef” which kicked the meal off, an intriguing apricot meringue with anchovy and liquorice, a slightly chewy, surprising sensation. Another was the fresh oyster, crunch of brunoise (micro cubes) of apple, cucumber and wasabi oil, while the bread course highlight was a creation of the chef – a buttery, salty delight, a pretzel/croissant hybrid.
Main courses included a king crab dish; a taste of the sea with the surprise of the silky chawanmush (Japanese steamed egg custard) at the bottom with spikes of salty peta negra (acorn fed pork). The petit four and chocolate selection to round off the meal was equally immense. Each flavour bomb was thought through and I particularly liked the macadamia with popping candy and rose and lychee chocolate. The Restaurant is well worth booking.
Out and about
I tore myself away from the Dolder Grand to check out Zürich as it was my first time visiting the city – and I had a number of “must-do” items on my list. The Kunsthaus Zürich gallery, which has one of the largest art collections in Switzerland, is definitely worth a visit, as is the Swiss chocolate shops, quaint streets lined with pastel-coloured houses, and the pretty riverside walks.
If you like shopping there are plenty of Swiss and international designer brands and if you are after something more accessible, there are numerous outlets in the ShopVille shopping mall found in the main train station.
Visiting in December, the city glistened in snow and the Christmas markets meant mulled wine was a must. I devoured a delicious dinner at Restaurant Zeughauskeller, which is housed in a 15th century building. Keeping it local, I enjoyed sliced venison in juniper cream sauce, homemade spaetzle, sauerkraut, local craft beer and the obligatory Swiss rösti on the side.
The smiling concierge at the Dolder Grand was eager to recommend places for our visit, such as Milchbar, where we had a spot of lunch surrounded by fairy lights. A good suggestion, they also booked us into a must-do when in Switzerland – a cheese fondue spot for dinner on our second night.
There is a regular free shuttle, in the form of a Mercedes minibus, which goes into the city centre and back. But if you miss it there’s the useful public Dolderbahn train seconds from the hotel which leaves every ten minutes. If you want to drive yourself you can borrow a BMW electric car or an e-bike from reception. The hotel also provides guests with a free access ticket to select destinations, such as the Kunsthaus Zürich gallery.
Relax in the spa
If staying put, and relaxation is more your thing, then head to the hotel’s spa. I had a custom massage which left me feeling tranquil and ready to explore the spa facilities. There is a snow room, steam bath, foot bath, aroma pool, plunge pool, solarium, sauna with forest views, baths filled with warm stones, a 25m-long swimming pool and an outdoor terrace equipped with steaming plunge pools to gaze at the trees below.
A focus on sustainability
Sustainable and eco credentials are hot topics in hospitality and the Dolder Grand plays its part, such as turning off the hotel façade lights from midnight until 6am. The hotel has been noticed for its achievements, including the myclimate award 2022, which recognised the five-star’s commitment to climate and environmental protection. Already the business meeting buffets are fully vegetarian unless guests request at a further cost to have meat or fish. This year the hotel plans to open an outdoor restaurant that is both vegan and vegetarian. By 2030 it also aims to be CO2 neutral.
Yasemen Kaner-White was a guest of The Dolder Grand. Rates for a double room superior start from CHF695 (around £625) per night including breakfast. Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zürich, Switzerland; thedoldergrand.com