Wild Thyme & Honey and The Crown review: country-ski chic in the Cotswolds

Is there anything more relaxing than sitting in a country pub near a roaring fire while sipping something a little stronger than a cup of Earl Grey? I have always enjoyed the whole “roaring-fire-in-a-pub” thing when in colder climes – think Scotland, the Alps or Finland – but now I’ve discovered somewhere a little closer to home to indulge in this warming activity. So close to home, in fact, that it’s just half an hour from where I live.

I take the short drive to the other side of Cirencester to the Cotswold village of Ampney Crucis – one of the three “Ampneys” in Gloucestershire. Here is where you’ll find Wild Thyme & Honey, a boutique 24-room hotel with its own country pub, The Crown, which is located alongside Ampney Brook.

On any freezing cold Sunday in January, a roaring fire would be most welcome – and luckily this place has plenty of them. Inside there’s a fireplace in the bar area, while outside there are wood burners at the entrance and in the gardens. The real jewel in the crown (sorry) is the beautiful brick open fireplace in the covered outdoor courtyard where you can sit, relax and even tuck into some s’mores. With sleek wooden furniture, throws and sheepskin covers, is this really the Cotswolds? The decor is more akin to a luxury ski chalet somewhere like Chamonix, which is definitely a plus point.

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The rooms

The look and the feel of the accommodation at Wild Thyme & Honey follow a similar theme – but the abundance of bee and herb motifs remind me that I’m in the Cotswolds, not the Alps. I’m staying in “The Perch”, one of the Riverside Suites where each room is named after a local place, animal, food or plant, and features stunning design, furnishings and exposed stone walls.

My bed is ultra-comfy, the rainforest shower perfect and the free-standing tub is a surprising addition. A Nespresso machine, Roberts DAB radio, decanter of sloe gin and Bramley pillow spray are classy touches and provide extra comfort in what is an already very relaxing space.

Eating and drinking

Dinner is served in the upstairs dining room of The Crown at Ampney Brook – the full name of the pub, which connects to the accommodation via the reception area and courtyard. A 16th century inn, The Crown has a modern design, but it’s still got that warm, traditional village-pub vibe.

Keen to sample some of the regional produce and items on the menu, I start off with the “pressed pheasant” (£9.50), a delicious pork and black pudding soft pâté which is served with toasted brioche and complemented by the textures of celeriac remoulade and crunch of pickled Granny Smith apple.

Being a Sunday, the roast option is an obvious choice, but I have to go for the chicken and ham pie (£17.95). Made in a beef dripping pastry, this is proper pub-grub – but taken to another level with English mustard and chive mash and served with smoked beef fat roasted carrots. The picture above does not do the dish justice.

There are just four words to sum up dessert: signature sticky toffee pudding (£8.50). Ok, a few more words must be said about this pud as it’s served with a spiced brandy snap, vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. It’s a real winter warmer, especially as I pair it with a dram of single malt whisky from the Cotswold Distillery.

The residents’ breakfast is also served in The Crown, in the downstairs dining room. Here you can help yourself to cold cuts, cheeses, breads and juices from the breakfast table. There’s also the choice of signature breakfasts, baps and sweet treats, such as Scotch pancakes. I choose the Suffolk pork sausage bap which is served in a brioche bun with black pudding brown sauce.

The food and drink at The Crown is definitely up there with the some of best pubs I have eaten at in “The Shire”, as we like to call our home county. The only downside I would say is there could be more local or West Country items on the menu – especially for drinks and draft beers or ales, as there are so many breweries, vineyards and distilleries in the area. It is good to see the Cotswolds spirits though.

In the spring or summer (or weather-depending), diners can also choose to eat and drink in the outdoor “pods” and at tables in the gardens.

Things to do

In order to burn off some of the black pudding, pie, sticky toffee and sausage bap, guests can shove their walking boots or wellingtons on and head for a ramble in the great Gloucestershire outdoors. Forgotten your wellies? Fear not, because the hotel can provide guests with a pair of Hunters which are found at the entrance door. There are also bikes for borrowing if a two-wheeled adventure is more your thing.

With its location next to a brook, a waterside stroll is a lovely thing to do here – and there’s also a small bridge by the accommodation building which leads to the cricket pitch opposite.

If you’re heading out and about then the Roman and market town of Cirencester is about ten minutes’ drive away. Here, you’ll find some nice places to shop, eat and drink. The Corinium Museum is also worth a visit. Other nearby places of interest include the towns of Tetbury and Stroud, the Cotswold Water Park and The National Arboretum at Westonbirt.

Located nine miles away, Kemble is the nearest train station to Ampney Crucis. From here you can get direct services to Cheltenham, Worcester and London Paddington.

The verdict

When I arrive at Wild Thyme & Honey, the reception staff tell me that a wedding fair took place there over the weekend and the hotel was fully booked by couples seeking a memorable location for their big day. Wedding, country retreat, night away or meal out, this hotel and pub is an ideal spot for any occasion – plus a perfect place to indulge in the joys of what The Shire has to offer.

Being half an hour away, I may have found myself a new “local”. One request, just keep that fire going…

Mike Starling was a guest of Wild Thyme & Honey. Double rooms start from £170 per night including breakfast. Ampney Crucis, Cirencester, GL7 5RS; wildthymeandhoney.co.uk