Amma’s aubergine poriyal recipe
This fragrant and rich dish is steeped in family tradition
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There’s always one person in a family that makes the best version of a particular dish, said Brin Pirathapan: and in my family, everyone knows that my mum’s fried aubergine is the best aubergine dish around. There would be a full-on revolt if anyone turned up to a party at our family home and there wasn’t a vat of it waiting to be demolished. Mum passed on the recipe to me, but there’s an element of intuition that can’t be written down. None of us can fully live up to her famous dish, but we can try.
Ingredients (serves 4-6, as a side)
- 3 aubergines, cut into 1cm cubes
- vegetable or sunflower oil, for deep-frying
- 6 garlic cloves, 3 peeled and left whole, 3 grated
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 dried red chillies (optional)
- 1½ red onions, finely diced
- 10-15 curry leaves (fresh, if available)
- 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, grated
- ½ tsp hot chilli powder (or more if you like it spicy)
- 3 tomatoes, diced
- sea salt (optional)
Method
- If you sprinkle the aubergine cubes with salt to draw out a bit of moisture before frying, it can really enhance the flavour of the aubergine, but this is up to you.
- Heat enough oil in a deep-fat fryer (if you have one) or in a heavy-based saucepan (don’t fill the pan more than two-thirds full) to 180C (or until a small piece of bread browns in 30 seconds).
- Add the aubergine cubes to the hot oil in batches and then remove (using a slotted spoon) when the flesh turns a deep golden brown colour and the skin is shiny. Transfer them to lots of kitchen paper to soak up the excess oil, while you fry the remaining batches.
- When the aubergine is cooked, turn off the heat, add the whole garlic cloves to the hot oil and leave to soften and colour for 5 minutes, then add to the cooked aubergine.
- Heat the olive oil in a large pan or wok over a medium-high heat, then once it’s hot, add the cinnamon stick and whole dried red chillies (if using). After about 30 seconds, add the red onions and curry leaves. Give it all a decent mix and cook for a couple of minutes.
- Add the grated garlic and ginger along with the chilli powder and tomatoes. Mix, then add the fried aubergine cubes and whole garlic cloves. Give it a good stir and pop a lid on, then let that cook over a medium heat for about 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Plate up and enjoy!
Taken from Elevate: Everyday Ingredients, Incredible Flavours by Brin Pirathapan
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