A family beach holiday in Lithuania
Plus New York’s real Little Italy, and luxury boltholes in the wild Algarve
With tourists starting to be deterred by the frequent heatwaves and soaring prices in the Mediterranean, Lithuania has been growing in popularity as a beach-holiday destination. It is generally cooler and more affordable than the Med, and it doesn’t lack for natural beauty, said Sarah Rodrigues in The Guardian.
On a recent trip, I visited the beach resort of Palanga, “kitsch” and “rowdy” in parts, but I loved its 19th-century Tiškeviciai Palace and “uncrowded” sections of white-sand beaches, where the sea is shallow for a long way out (making them perfect for families). And the Curonian Spit – a forested sandbar more than 60 miles long – is magnificently “untamed”.
I stayed there at the “basic, comfortable” Hotel Nidus, cycled along some of the spit’s wild trails, climbed the 220-metre-high Vecekrugas Dune, and particularly enjoyed eating smoked fish with fresh tomatoes and drinking cold beer at one of the lagoon-side shacks in the village of Preila.
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New York’s real Little Italy
There aren’t many Italians living in Manhattan’s Little Italy these days, just a lot of “mediocre” Italian restaurants, aimed at tourists. For the real deal, New Yorkers will tell you to head to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, said David Farley in The Telegraph – accessible on the B train. A century ago, this low-rise street was known as “the Italian colony” for its community of Italian labourers, and it is still packed with restaurants, delis and bakeries selling produce from the old country. Don’t miss the pinolate biscuits in the 108-year-old Madonia Bakery, or Pace’s Italian Market, which has 100 varieties of Italian cheese. But you should explore the side streets too. They are full of Balkan and Mexican stores and restaurants, the fruits of a new cycle of immigration that began decades ago: “This is America”, after all.
Luxury boltholes in the wild Algarve
Known as the Costa Vicentina, the southernmost stretch of Portugal’s west coast is famed for its towering cliffs and “pristine” surfing beaches. Much of it lies within a protected natural park, but a couple of boutique hotels have recently opened on the site of old farms, said Amelia Duggan in The Times – ideal for travellers who “prefer their wilderness to come with a high thread count”. Set about five miles back from the sea near the medieval town of Aljezur, the Vale Palheiro Earth Resort nestles in an “emerald” valley, its “vast” villas built with rammed earth. And further north, closer to the sea near the village of Odeceixe sits Amaria, a “white farmhouse complex”. Its suites have a “pared-back, contemporary aesthetic”, with walls of glass, “diaphanous” drapes and freestanding baths.
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