A foodie guide to Bilbao

When the Guggenheim opened its doors in 1997, Bilbao was a former industrial powerhouse in the throes of an economic crisis. But the opening of the iconic Frank Gehry-designed art museum kickstarted a huge urban renewal programme, and today the northern Spanish port city is a vibrant cultural hub, with an ever-growing collection of galleries, music venues and restaurants. 

Bilbao is famed for its delicious Basque cuisine. Alongside several Michelin-starred eateries, the city is home to the riverside Mercado de la Ribera – one of the largest covered food markets in Europe – and an assortment of laid-back bars serving tasty bite-sized morsels (pintxos).

As tempting as it is to stay put in one cosy bar, try to order only two to three pintxos before moving on to the next venue, said Jennifer Fernández Solano in Lonely Planet. After all, "bar-hopping in search of the perfect pintxo is part of the fun." 

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Start in Plaza Nueva, a neoclassical square in the heart of the old town, where you can weave in and out of the bars to see what takes your fancy. "Be adventurous and taste widely – yet stay selective": in this gourmet landscape, you don't want to waste space on anything that's "less than stellar".

Specialities to look out for include bacalao al pil pil (salted cod in chilli, garlic and olive oil sauce), kokotxas (Basque fish stew) and txuleta (local rib steak). Not sure where to begin? Here are six of Bilbao's best restaurants, from a fine dining eatery inside the Guggenheim to a grocery store turned culinary hotspot.

La Viña del Ensanche 

Head to this "classic pintxos bar" for a "great taste of Bilbao", said Mark Nayler in Culture Trip. The "star snack" is toasted baguette topped with Iberian ham and olive oil, or you can opt for the seven-dish tasting menu. Wash everything down with draught beer or the "superbly priced" wines. 

lavinadelensanche.com

El Globo

It takes "just one bite" to see why El Globo is one of the most popular bars in Bilbao, wrote Marti Buckley in The Telegraph. The gleaming counter "heaves under the weight" of the "gorgeous" miniature culinary creations that tempt even the most "jaded" locals. "This is pintxo heaven."

barelglobo.es

Casa Rufo 

This charming restaurant began life as a grocery store (or abacería) in 1955. Now, said Shawn Hennessey in Decanter, it's a "small rustic eatery" helmed by head chef José Luís Pérez Landeta which specialises in traditional Basque dishes and grilled meats. The cosy atmosphere and friendly service makes you feel "immediately at home". 

casarufo.com

Kate Zaharra 

Set within a farmhouse in the hills of Artxanda, Kate Zaharra is a dining experience "you'll remember for years to come", said Fernández Solano. As well as being an excellent spot for people-watching, the views are "unparalleled" and the txuleta is among the best in the city. 

kate-zaharra.com

Zarate 

The guiding principles of this Michelin-starred restaurant are based around chef Sergio Ortiz de Zarate's "exceptional knowledge" of fish, according to its listing in the guide. The menu is built around "Cantabria's finest" seafood – sourced daily from the ports of Lekeitio and Ondarroa. 

zarate.restaurant

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao

Described in The World's 50 Best Restaurants guide as a "cool white shrine to cutting-edge Spanish gastronomy", Nerua sits inside the Guggenheim. The restaurant scooped a Michelin star within six months of opening thanks to chef Josean Alija's "meticulous dishes", which draw on traditional Basque flavours and change with the seasons. Book a table out on the terrace to soak up the views.

neruaguggenheimbilbao.com