A magical underwater world at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island
Watch the colourful marine life while you dine or from the comfort of your bed at this seriously swanky resort
The Maldives’ charm isn’t just in its paradise beaches or its agreeable all-year-round climate. There’s also the colourful marine life that lurks in the ocean. Manta rays, black-tipped sharks and iridescent needlefish leisurely sauntering around the islands are a common sight. Conrad Maldives Rangali Island has been a pioneer in unique underwater experiences in the Maldives; it’s one of the few hotels in the world with an underwater villa – and what has to be one of the best views ever from a toilet.
Why stay here?
Abundant wildlife and a dazzling lagoon
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is hard to beat when it comes to natural beauty. It is one of the biggest resorts in the Maldives. Made up of two large islands, it has huge swathes of golden beaches surrounded by a dazzling lagoon that shimmers with piercing shades of blue. There is abundant wildlife; you’ll see the hotel’s resident heron, George, perching proudly on his favourite sunbed, crabs scuttling across the steps of water villas, and at night the long bridge connecting the two islands is lit up with colourful drop lights so you can see fish and manta rays indulging in their own nocturnal rave. Drop lights are also used at the over-water restaurants Sunset Grill and Mandhoo so you can often see sharks and fish floating around as you enjoy your meal. You don’t need to step into the water to enjoy the marine life (but you really should).
The resort
One of the tranquil bathrooms at the Muraka
The two islands have a very different feel to them, although both are incredibly beautiful. The adults-only side, unsurprisingly, is more tranquil, with a focus on relaxation and wellness, while the main family-friendly island is where you’ll find most of the activities, including the dive centre where you can learn how to scuba or take a snorkelling trip to see whale sharks.
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On each island there’s plenty of space to spread out and find your own private patch of sand, and it never feels crowded. Even travelling during high season, I found there were plenty of sunbeds available on the beach. The interior of the islands are a lush verdant jungle with towering palm trees and even a small banana plantation and a hydroponics garden.
The rooms resemble traditional huts with thatched roofs, dark walnut wood panelling, light grey furnishings and Byredo toiletries. I stayed in a water villa on the adults-only island. It looks out on to a very calm and shallow lagoon, which is protected by unobtrusive sea walls. The outdoor patio has sunbeds, chairs and a table along with a small pool – a great spot to watch the spectacular sunsets unfold.
Lie back in bed and watch as the neon-tinged fish twirl, dance and dart above you
Jutting out of the sea on the main island, the Muraka gleams like a sleek, minimalist marvel. It’s the Maldives’ first underwater villa (there are a few others now) and the two-storey building is seriously impressive. Upstairs is an elegant two-bedroom residence with gleaming marble floors, tasteful furnishings, bright splashes of abstract artwork, a private gym, a huge outdoor terrace and an infinity pool. There’s a fully equipped kitchen where a private chef can whip up any meal you fancy.
A spiral staircase takes you 16 feet below sea level to an underwater bedroom, decked out in stylish dark leather, that wouldn’t look out of place in a James Bond film. Surrounded by huge windows, it has a clear domed ceiling so you can lie back in bed and watch as a colourful symphony of neon-tinged fish twirl, dance and dart above you. A retractable mechanical blind covers the dome if the glare of the sun gets too much or you want some privacy from prying fish eyes.
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The underwater bathroom features floor to ceiling windows, which means you can gawp at all the dazzling marine life as you shower. There’s a small living room area too to give you several vantage points in your own private aquarium. Everywhere you turn, there is the breathtaking sight of the ocean fizzing with life. On what other holiday could you say you couldn’t bear to tear yourself away from the toilet?
Once you’re ready to resurface, there are tennis courts, a 24-hour fitness centre, beach volleyball, yoga classes, infinity pools and a watersports centre to keep you occupied. The hotel’s over-water spa is a great place to recharge with a relaxing massage or facial – here you’ll be treated to another novel toilet set up, out in the open air if you dare.
Eating and drinking
Fresh seafood and a stunning overwater setting at Sunset Grill
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to food. Atoll Market on the main island offers a hearty breakfast spread with a sushi counter and a noodle making station. I feasted on coconut pancakes, Maldivian tuna buns and the most heavenly banana bread. Vilu on the adults-only side has a more pared down menu in a beautiful setting right by the sea.
During my stay I devoured sauteed prawns in a mango and avocado dressing at Sunset Grill, which focuses on seafood and meat, as sharks splashed around by my table outside. I ate perfectly seared scallops with a celeriac puree at Mandhoo, a restaurant offering healthy dining, and enjoyed an indulgent pina colada semifreddo at Vilu, which focuses on Mediterranean Italian cooking. My favourite, though, was Ufaa by Jereme Leung, a Chinese restaurant right by the beach. It’s a playful take on Cantonese cooking – try the juicy dumplings with sweet black garlic and gold leaf – and the freshness of the seafood shines through.
But if you want food with a killer view then you have to check out Ithaa, the resort’s intimate all-glass underwater restaurant, which has just 14 seats. I was mesmerised during my breakfast there. I watched black-tipped sharks swimming above me and schools of fish going about their morning routine as I enjoyed delectable pastries, a tasty eggs benedict royale and a colourful plate of tropical fruit.
The verdict
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is hard to beat when it comes to natural beauty
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is a showstopper in looks and experiences. It’s a nature lover’s paradise and wandering around the island can often feel like you’re in a Disney animation that has magically sprung to life. For those who want to splash the cash, the Muraka is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sleep underwater. Watching fish go by while lying in bed or showering is an unbeatable, pinch-me-is-this-real moment. This is the villa to book if you want to feel like a celebrity while indulging in your own “Finding Nemo” moment.
Ann was a guest of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. Virgin Atlantic flies direct between London Heathrow and Malé, the capital of the Maldives, with return fares from £757; virginatlantic.com
Ann Lee is a commissioning editor at The Guardian for features. Her writing has also appeared in The Independent, The Telegraph, The i Paper, The Standard, Metro and Radio Times, as well as The Week. She specialises in entertainment and travel. Over the years, she has interviewed many stars including Kathleen Turner, Michelle Yeoh, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Alexander Skarsgård and Jennifer Lopez. She enjoys travelling to far-flung places in her continual quest to eat the perfect meal, and her favourite city for food is Hong Kong.