Cruising round a blustery bend on the Danube in Austria's Wachau Valley, I grip my hot-water bottle a little tighter. I'm aboard the Viking Tor on a river cruise between Budapest, Hungary and Passau, Germany and the weather is frosty during my 10-day adventure.
I've chosen to sail off-season, a relatively new concept for the cruise line, which launched its first winter cruise on the Rhine in 2023. I came prepared though, with layers, hats, and the aforementioned hot-water bottle, so I am able to enjoy the snow-tipped hills, and icy castles from the boat's top deck.
It is a special time of year to navigate the Danube. Usually its 2,857 miles are bustling with river cruisers, but in February we have it to ourselves; there's barely another boat to be seen. Instead, we are treated to chocolate-box towns without the crowds, and glassy, undisturbed waters reflecting a pale winter sky. It is a glorious way to take in Europe at a slower pace.
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The Viking Tor, launched in 2013, is one of 60 identical Viking Longships, their award-winning fleet of river cruisers primarily used in Europe. It can host 190 guests and 53 crew, each of whom provide friendly, informal service – barman George knew our favourite drinks by the second round.
It doesn't take long before you feel right at home in the Tor's sleek, Scandinavian interiors. The library is a relaxing place in which to read, while the top deck has mini golf and shuffleboard, if you prefer a bit more entertainment. There are also talks and demonstrations such as an apple strudel cooking lesson, or a presentation on the history of Slovakian national dance.
Viking cruises are all about the destinations. Each evening before dinner we were given a talk about where we were going the following morning, which helped inform what we might choose to do. A walking tour is included at each stop, where local guides treated us to stories, myths and legends over a Quietvox, a small receiver with headphones that every guest is given.
Itinerary
It doesn't take long before you feel right at home onboard the Tor
(Image credit: Viking Cruises)
After leaving Budapest we head to Győr, a small city in the north of Hungary, and onwards to Slovakia's Bratislava, Austria's Vienna, Grein and Linz, and then Passau, just over the border in Germany. This 346-mile journey takes us through four of the 10 countries on the banks of the Danube, and we see the landscape change from vast, flat vistas in Hungary, to winding, vineyard-lined hills in Austria.
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Each stop has its own particular charms, from the pastel, onion domes of Győr, to the Baroque St Stephen's Cathedral of Passau. We start in the grand Széchenyi Thermal Baths in Budapest, where we relax in healing 34C waters. In Linz, we take a dinky little train up the Pöstlingberg hill and are treated to sprawling views into the misty distance, while a tour of Vienna's State Opera House provides us with culture and history going back to the mid-1800s.
Accommodation
Guests can watch the river from the comfort of their bed
(Image credit: Viking Cruises)
Each of the ship's 95 bedrooms are peaceful and comfortable, with robes, queen-size beds, and toiletries from Nordic skincare brand Freyja, inspired by Freyja the Norse goddess of love. My balcony room had floor to ceiling glass doors, allowing us to watch the river go by from our bed. There is plenty of storage, with a wardrobe, two chests of drawers and room under the beds for your cases, as well as a mini-fridge for any snacks and purchases made along the way.
There are also two suites on board, for those looking for a little luxury. These huge 445 square foot spaces have a wraparound balcony with views directly off the back of the boat, a bedroom and a spacious living room, welcome champagne, and a well-stocked minibar.
Food and drink
The terrace at the front of the ship is a prime spot for dinner
(Image credit: Viking Cruises)
The glass Aquavit restaurant and terrace at the front of the ship is a prime spot for a bit of lunch or a more relaxed dinner. The main restaurant is open for a buffet breakfast, and an à la carte lunch and evening meal, and the open seating means you can meet some of your fellow cruisers at different tables each night.
The dinner menu has two halves, one staying the same and the other reflecting that day's stop. Sommeliers are on hand to recommend, but not push, specialty wines, while their house wine from Austria's Mörwald Winery is included for all guests at lunch and dinner. The Silver Spirits drinks package is available for those who prefer not to think about the bar bill.
After dinner the lounge comes to life, with performances from local musicians, the house pianist and singer, and even game nights that get more than a little rowdy. All the while, the sound of cocktail shakers and bottles popping signal you're in for a good time.
Jaymi was a guest onboard the Viking Tor for the 10-day Treasures of the Danube river cruise, vikingrivercruises.co.uk
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.
