A weekend in Budapest: travel guide, things to do, food and drink
Everything you need to know for a long weekend in Hungary's charming capital
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Known as the 'Pearl of the Danube', Budapest never fails to impress. This iconic city, which is actually made up of two towns called Buda and Pest which straddle the river, attracts nearly seven million visitors a year, and with good reason.
It is absolutely packed with baroque, neoclassical and art nouveau architecture, with grand boulevards to rival those of Paris, and has centuries of turbulent history to discover. But in the more recent past few decades the Hungarian capital has grown into a modern, exciting metropolis, with lots to offer.
So whether you want to wander around museums, shop in the designer boutiques on Andrássy Avenue, or see in the small hours in one of the city's vibrant bars, Budapest is the perfect weekend break.
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What to do
Szechenyi Baths is one of Budapest's most popular attractions
A dip in the thermal baths, powered by the city’s naturally heated springs, is a must when visiting Budapest. There are more than 100 springs, producing warm, mineral-rich water. The grand Széchenyi Thermal Baths is perhaps the most famous. Here, you can wallow in 34C waters in the courtyard of a palatial neo-baroque bathhouse, or head inside to one of 18 temperature-spanning pools. Rudas Thermal Bath is also a good option, with its domed rooftop pool, and Gellert indoor pool is in a stunning art nouveau surrounding.
Once you are relaxed, set off to see the sights. Budapest's history can be seen everywhere you look, so put on some comfy shoes and get walking. Sights not to miss include the iconic Parliament Building, Fisherman's Bastion, Buda Castle, St Stephen's Basilica, Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Hungarian State Opera, Central Market Hall and Heroes' Square. The poignant Shoes on the Danube Bank installation on the east bank commemorates the 3,500 people, 800 of whom were Jews, shot into the Danube between 1944 and 1945. If you wish to learn more about this period and the Soviet era that followed it then The House of Terror Museum is where you should spend a rainy day.
Eating and drinking
Szimpla Kert was one of Budapest's first ruin bars
For authentic yet contemporary Hungarian cuisine head for Getto Gulyas, in the heart of the Jewish quarter, and perfect for a hearty meal. Of course, you must try the namesake goulash, but the chicken paprikash (available in mushroom for vegetarians) also deserves its place on the menu.
Nightingale by Beefbar is one of the city's newest fine dining options, and offers a fusion of Asian cuisine for brunch, lunch and dinner. The yakiniku steak and hamachi crudo yellowtail sashimi are standout dishes, but make sure you leave room for their signature Choco Beef dessert and a cocktail.
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Lángos is Budapest's favorite street food, a deep-fried flatbread smothered in whatever toppings you choose. It is available throughout the city, but Retro Lángos undoubtedly serves one of the best. Try it with the traditional sour cream, bacon, onion and cheese for a delicious lunch.
Bortodoor City is the perfect spot to explore the world of Hungarian wine. Located in a little back alley, you could easily walk right past it, but they will welcome you with a glass of fizz and take the time to talk you through the many wines gracing their shelves. On Sundays they sell the previous week's selections at a discounted rate.
You can't go out in Budapest without stopping off at one of the famous ruin bars. Decades ago the abandoned and derelict homes of the Jewish quarter were transformed into vibrant bars and clubs, and they attract visitors from around the world to this day. The labyrinthine Szimpla Kert is the most famous, but Instant-Fogas and Mazel Tovare worth visiting as well.
Where to stay
W Budapest: a chic bolthole in the former home of the Hungarian State Ballet Academy
Check out the new W Budapest hotel, opposite the State Opera House on the distinguished Andrássy Avenue. This chic property is in the 1886 Drechsler Palace, former home of the Hungarian State Ballet Academy, before it was utterly transformed by the fashionable hotel chain. The internal courtyard is now an atrium with an innovative glass roof, while the pool is housed in a former underground nightclub. Design touches include tiles inspired by those on Hungarian church roofs, and a second skin of metalwork under the building’s decorative arches, representing the twin sides of Buda and Pest.
Work out your knots at the Away spa, where a maze of corridors leads to treatment rooms, a sauna, a steam room, fitness centre and a plunge pool framed by gothic arches and terracotta detailing.
All 151 guest rooms, including 45 suites, have a truly enormous W Hotels brand bed, guaranteed to give you a good night's sleep, as well as cotton robes, Marshall speakers, and toiletries from Skin Regimen and Momo.
Jaymi was a guest at W Budapest, marriott.com
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Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.
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