Magical Christmas markets in the Black Forest
Snow, twinkling lights, glühwein and song: the charm of traditional festive markets in south-west Germany
In the depths of Germany's Black Forest lie some magical surprises. Down a frosty lane, past old sawmills, waterfalls and snow-dusted trees, I discovered a Christmas market worthy of a German fairy tale.
Entering the market at Ravenna Gorge, in Baden-Württemberg, feels like arriving in Christmas land. More than 40 stalls are framed by the steep hills of the forest and the 40m-high Höllental Railway viaduct, on which trains clatter by every 15 minutes or so. The smell of glühwein and roasting bratwurst fill the air.
The best view of the market can be found on top of the Galgenbühl hill, behind hotel Hofgut Sternen, which has hosted such famous guests over the years as Goethe and Marie Antoinette. I head up there to watch the sun set behind the 12th-century St Oswald Chapel, the oldest surviving parish church in the High Black Forest, and admire the millions of fairy lights twinkling in the dusk.
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Twinkle, twinkle: lights hang from a Christmas-market stall
After dark is when the Christmas market really comes to life. The fires are lit, mulled wine begins to flow, and music plays among the trees. We enjoyed walking a riverside path through the illuminated woods that uses wooden sculpture to tell the story of the nativity. Children were left spellbound by Santa's presence – and presents.
I also finally succumbed to a heaped mound of kasëspatzle, a German cheese and onion noodle dish, alongside a burgundy mug of glühwein, but there is almost too much to try, from flammkuchen (a very thin sort-of pizza, with a fromage-blanc sauce base), to gingerbread. It was a magical night under the stars.
Of course, Christmas markets have a long history in Germany; some trace their origins back to the traditional winter markets of the 15th and 16th centuries. In 2019, there were more than 3,000 Christmas markets across the country and now, in rural communities, they are often held on different weekends, to promote local produce and attract visitors. When I visited the Black Forest, the tiny village of Sankt Märgen was showcasing locally made teas, knitted goods, and performers playing Swiss alphorns in front of a 12th-century monastery.
We chose to stay in Hinterzarten, a village about 3.5 miles from Ravenna Gorge, and, at the Hotel Schwarzwaldhof, our room was clad in traditional wood panelling, painted with murals. Across from our hotel, the village market was in full swing, with glühwein and hotdogs and a local brass band, playing a mixture of traditional music and modern hits. Hinterzarten is also home to the Black Forest Ski Museum, where they share the stories and history of the sport in the region.
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The nearest city is Freiburg im Breisgau, known for its 800-year-old Freiburg Minster (cathedral), its chocolate-box old town, and, of course, its Christmas market. With more than 120 stalls, it sprawls around the city's squares and cobbled alleyways, sprinkling some sparkle everywhere you look. We found mulled wine and traditional German foods, as well as ornaments, clothes and carved gifts.
Mulled wine and traditional gifts: Freiburg's Christmas market
After spending some time wandering the stalls, we headed indoors for a meal at the Colombi Chalet, an alpine-lodge-style restaurant – complete with wall-mounted antlers, fur blankets, and wood cladding – opened each winter by The Colombi Hotel, the city's only five-star establishment. Here, they serve traditional cuisine from Baden-Württemberg, as well as elevated German staples. The beef entrecôte with spätzle was a stand-out winter warmer, while the Black Forest gâteaux in a glass was the perfect sweet end.
Away from the markets, Freiburg has plenty to offer for a European city break, from the art collection of the Augustiner Museum, to the views from the 456m-tall Schlossberg Cable Car. We had lunch at the bustling Markthalle, a food market inside the old home of the local newspaper's printing presses, enjoyed drinks beside the bronze tanks of Feierling Brewery, and shopped in the independent boutiques of the riverside quarter, Klein-Venedig.
We spent the final evening of our Christmas trip at the Alte Wache, a specialist wine shop and bar in a 300-year-old former guard station. As I enjoyed a glass of Baden pinot noir under the heaters outside, I listened to local Freiburgers laughing, and felt the festive joy. The Black Forest is the perfect place to get into the Christmas spirit.
Jaymi was a guest of Schwarzwald Tourismus, Hotel Schwarzwaldhof (from £121 per night), and Hotel am Stadtgarten Designhotel (from £70 per night)
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.