Lamu: the surprisingly unspoilt delights of a Kenyan island

Lamu Old Town: a Unesco World Heritage Site

(Image credit: javarman/Shutterstock)

published 17 December 2023

With its glorious old town, "spectacular" beaches and "laid-back" atmosphere, the Kenyan island of Lamu is one of the world's most bewitching places. I first visited as a "scruffy backpacker" in 1992, said Jeffrey Gettleman in Travel + Leisure, and over the course of 20 subsequent visits, I have watched as "sparkling white vacation villas" have sprung up along its shores, and celebrities from Madonna to Mick Jagger have discovered its charms. But it is still unspoilt. There are very few cars, the island's fragile mangrove creeks and sand dunes are intact, Lamu Old Town (the world's oldest Swahili settlement, and a Unesco World Heritage Site) is well preserved, and the atmosphere is still warm and welcoming.

The best place to stay is the family owned Peponi Hotel, which opened more than 50 years ago. Set on a breezy stretch of beach two miles outside town, it has the "classiest" rooms ("airy and white") and the "liveliest scene" on the island. Its chef is a master of Swahili cuisine (which is delicious, "relying heavily on coconut milk, ginger, cardamom, Indian masala spices and fresh fish"), and its owner arranges excellent itineraries for guests, from lunch reservations to sunset boat trips. It also has plenty of watersports equipment, including two ski boats.

"A maze of snaking alleys, small squares, mosques and tucked-away shops", Lamu Old Town was founded as a trading post seven centuries ago, and "reflects the influence of people from all over – Indians, Omanis, Persians, Portuguese". In its "friendly" market, the fragrance of ripening mangoes mingles with "the scents of crisping samosas and salty sea air". And the walk back to Peponi's from the town is beautiful. Along the way, children might invite you to join in a game of football on the beach, and at the hotel, "barefoot boat captains in their prayer caps" often patronise the bar, making for good company in the evenings, if you want it.