Onima restaurant review: Mayfair meets the Med

Welcome to a corner of central London where the sun is always shining

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Having never been to Mykonos, I cannot say with confidence whether Onima achieves its aim of bringing the spirit of that Greek pleasure isle to London. It certainly doesn’t bring the weather: even after seeing out the worst of the deluge under an awning in nearby Bond Street, I sat down to eat with wet feet.

On reflection, however, I don’t remember exactly when they dried out. I stopped noticing somewhere in between a potent martini made with Monkey 47, one of several gins on an intriguing drinks menu, and a starter of deep-fried courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta, feta and anchovy. The salty, creamy, crispy delight of textures and flavours erased all earthly thoughts of dampness.

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Holden Frith is The Week’s digital director. He also makes regular appearances on “The Week Unwrapped”, speaking about subjects as diverse as vaccine development and bionic bomb-sniffing locusts. He joined The Week in 2013, spending five years editing the magazine’s website. Before that, he was deputy digital editor at The Sunday Times. He has also been TheTimes.co.uk’s technology editor and the launch editor of Wired magazine’s UK website. Holden has worked in journalism for nearly two decades, having started his professional career while completing an English literature degree at Cambridge University. He followed that with a master’s degree in journalism from Northwestern University in Chicago. A keen photographer, he also writes travel features whenever he gets the chance.