The grounds of a remote 16th century chateau in central France may strike many observers as an ambitious and even odd location for the construction of a contemporary hotel.
With more than 14,000 acres of sprawling gardens, rivers and woodland, the Unesco-listed Domaine de Chambord estate, in the heart of the Loire Valley, recalls the feudal landscapes of old.
The estate is also home to one of the most peculiar, grandiose achievements of French architectural history - the castle from which the grounds take their name, Château de Chambord.
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This 500-year-old bastion of eccentricity - the third-largest château in France - was built by King Francis I and features none of the splendour of Versailles, nor the touristic allure of the Louvre. Indeed, Chambord’s contorted, angular and noticeably asymmetrical frame represents one of the most unexpected Renaissance architectural achievements to be found anywhere in Europe.
Even more unexpected is the hotel that sits in the iconic château’s shadow, Le Relais de Chambord.
The hotel is the creation of entrepreneur Frédéric Jousset, who teamed up with the French government to “breathe new life” into a decaying two-star 19th-century relais, or inn, that sat on the site. But the scope of the refit makes it more a rebirth than a resurrection, with the team gutting the building and turning it into a truly cutting-edge property.
The Relais’ front facade is a wall of slate with a glass-fronted entrance where attentive, personable porters are on hand to welcome guests.
The lobby is a bright, breezy affair, with a floor-to-ceiling bookcase lining the stairs up to the hotel’s Le Grand Saint Michel restaurant - named after the inn from which it was built.
The plush but unpretentious restaurant offers menus updated with the seasons that draw on a wealth of local ingredients.
During The Week Portfolio’s visit, the seared beef fillet was a particular highlight, jostling for top spot with a delicate pike perch with hazelnut oil and leek purée. The meal ended with a selection of fabulous cheeses including the Sainte-Maure de Touraine, a Loire delicacy with a thin rope of straw running through its soft centre.
Upstairs, the decor in the 55 rooms blends muted tones with vibrant pops of sunset orange and scarlet on the bedside tables and headboards.
Despite featuring the usual mod cons - every room has a huge smart TV - the rooms and suites wear their history proudly, with original details throughout.
The hotel also boasts plenty of “rooms with a view”. Those in the east wing look out to the surrounding woodland, while guests in south- and north-facing rooms can gaze upon the bucolic landscape of Chambord village and the Cosson river.
Guests can relax further with a post-spa dinner or aperitif on Le Grand Saint Michel’s chateau-side terrace.
Long after the park closes to outside visitors, patrons of the Relais also have free rein to explore the grounds at their leisure, whether on foot or with the bicycles and electric cars available at reception. The sight of the floodlit château is well worth the effort.
The château draws millions of visitors from across the globe each year. But despite its broad appeal, the castle has, since its foundations were laid, been unused; an unliveable stone manor built on a foundation of hubris and pre-Bastille propaganda, which stands as a monument to an epoch of French history defined by vulgar excess.
Strolling through the Domaine de Chambord is no ordinary holiday experience. Just a short hop from Paris, it is within striking distance of the Eurostar, making it easy to reach from the UK. Yet in terms of atmosphere, the sprawling grounds and imposing exterior of this château could not feel further from home.
The Relais de Chambord, perched in the middle of it all, is a master stroke. Both an elegant complement to a snapshot of French antiquity, and a strikingly modern addition to this corner of the world, the Relais has it all.
Rooms at Le Relais de Chambord costs from €165 (£144) per night, based on two sharing a Standard Double, on a B&B basis; relaisdechambord.com
Eurostar operates up to 19 daily services from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare Du Nord with one-way fares starting from £29 (based on a return journey). eurostar.com or 03432 186 186
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